Rajasthan: forts, palaces and desert cities

Why go

For centuries Rajput clans ruled this desert region from fortified capitals, and many of their palaces are now museums or heritage hotels. Rajasthan rewards slow travel: wandering bazaars, watching sunset from a rooftop and staying in a converted haveli are as memorable as the big sights.

Jaipur

The capital, the Pink City, is the third corner of the Golden Triangle. **Amber Fort**, on a hill outside town, is the star: go early for its mirrored Sheesh Mahal and views over Maota Lake. Nearby **Nahargarh** and **Jaigarh** forts give sweeping views. In the old city, the **Hawa Mahal** facade is best seen from a café across the road, while the **City Palace** and the astronomical instruments of **Jantar Mantar**, a UNESCO site, sit side by side. Jaipur is famous for block printed textiles, blue pottery and gems; shop where you choose, not where a driver takes you. A composite ticket covers several monuments.

Udaipur

Often called the most romantic city in India, Udaipur wraps around **Lake Pichola**. Tour the vast **City Palace**, take a sunset boat ride, and watch the evening dance show at **Bagore ki Haveli**. The **Jagdish Temple**, **Saheliyon ki Bari** gardens and the hilltop **Monsoon Palace** are easy outings. Day trips go to the great fort of **Kumbhalgarh**, with walls that stretch for miles, and the carved marble Jain temples at **Ranakpur**.

Jodhpur

**Mehrangarh Fort**, one of the most impressive in India, rises straight out of the rock above a sea of blue houses. Its museum is superb and its audio guide excellent. Below, the **clock tower market** is great for spices, and **Jaswant Thada** is a calm marble memorial. Many visitors stay in the blue lanes of the old city for rooftop views of the fort.

Jaisalmer

Far to the west, the golden sandstone **Jaisalmer Fort** is a living fort where people still live and work. Explore its Jain temples and the carved **Patwon ki Haveli**, then head into the Thar Desert around Sam or quieter Khuri for a camel ride and a night under the stars. Choose a reputable camp and agree exactly what is included.

More to see

**Pushkar** is a small holy town around a sacred lake, with one of the few Brahma temples in India and the famous camel fair in the autumn. **Ranthambore National Park** offers some of the best chances in India to see wild tigers on a safari; book through the official forest department system. **Bundi** and **Shekhawati** reward those who like painted walls and few crowds.

Food

Try **dal baati churma**, laal maas (a fiery mutton curry), gatte ki sabzi, ker sangri and the onion kachori of Jodhpur. Rooftop restaurants in Udaipur and Jaisalmer come with views included.

Getting around

Trains link Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Jaisalmer, and there are flights to the main cities. Many visitors hire a private car with a driver for a week or more, arranged through a reputable hotel or agency. Distances are long, so allow at least two nights per city.

Tips

Days are hot even in winter sun, nights in the desert are cold from December to February, and the summer from April to June is fierce. Dress modestly in temples. Our trip planner helps you choose which cities fit your days, and Agra links in easily from the east.