Delhi: a first-timer's guide to the capital

Why go

Delhi is really several cities layered together. **Old Delhi**, built by Shah Jahan as Shahjahanabad, is a maze of bazaars around the Red Fort and the Jama Masjid. **New Delhi**, laid out by the British in the early twentieth century, has wide avenues, Kartavya Path and India Gate. In between and beyond lie medieval ruins, Sufi shrines, modern malls and green neighbourhoods. Seeing a little of each shows you how India's past and present sit side by side.

Old Delhi highlights

The **Red Fort**, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the seat of the Mughal emperors. Across the road, the **Jama Masjid** is one of the largest mosques in India; climb the minaret for views over the rooftops, and dress modestly. Then dive into **Chandni Chowk** by cycle rickshaw: the spice market of **Khari Baoli**, the silver lanes of Dariba Kalan and the parathas of Paranthe Wali Gali. The Sikh temple **Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib** welcomes visitors with covered heads.

New Delhi and the south

**Humayun's Tomb**, the garden tomb that inspired the Taj Mahal, is the most beautiful monument in the city and best in the late afternoon. Next door, **Nizamuddin Dargah** comes alive with qawwali music on Thursday evenings. The **Qutub Minar**, a soaring thirteenth century tower, and the **Lodhi Garden** tombs are other favourites. **Gurudwara Bangla Sahib** serves free meals to thousands every day, and the **Lotus Temple** and **Akshardham** show modern sacred architecture. For history, the **National Museum** is excellent.

Food

Delhi is a food city. In Old Delhi, try kebabs and nihari near the Jama Masjid, jalebis and chaat on Chandni Chowk and the famous butter chicken and dal makhani, which Delhi claims as its own. Restaurants in Hauz Khas, Khan Market and Connaught Place range from simple dhabas to some of India's most creative kitchens. Start gently with street food: choose busy stalls where food is cooked fresh in front of you.

Where to stay

**Connaught Place** and nearby areas are central and well connected by metro. **South Delhi**, around Defence Colony, Hauz Khas and Greater Kailash, is calmer and leafier. **Aerocity** by the airport suits short stays and late arrivals. Paharganj near New Delhi station is cheap and busy, and many visitors find it too hectic for a first night.

Getting around

The **Delhi Metro** is clean, air conditioned and the easiest way to cross the city, including the Airport Express line. Ride apps are reliable for door to door trips, and auto rickshaws are fine for short hops if you agree the fare first or use an app. Cycle rickshaws are perfect in Old Delhi's lanes. Allow plenty of time: traffic is heavy at peak hours.

Tips for first-timers

Touts at New Delhi railway station sometimes claim your ticket is invalid or that the tourist office has moved: ignore them and go straight to your platform. Never follow anyone to a private travel agency. From November to February air quality can be poor, so check the daily index and plan indoor time if needed. Many monuments are closed one day a week, so check before you go. Our places to visit list has favourites across the city, and the trip planner helps you link Delhi with Agra and Rajasthan.