Lake Balaton: Hungary's summer lake

Why go

Balaton is where Hungary relaxes. The water is warm and soft in summer, the north shore hills are covered in vineyards, and evenings are spent over fried fish, lángos and spritzers on a terrace by the water. Outside July and August it becomes a peaceful place for cycling, wine tasting and spa days.

The south shore

The south shore is flat with shallow water that stays knee deep for a long way out, ideal for children. **Siófok** is the biggest resort, with long beaches and a big summer party scene, while **Balatonlelle**, **Balatonboglár** and **Fonyód** are calmer and family friendly. Beaches here are often managed strands with lawns, showers and food stands, some with a small entry charge.

The north shore

The north shore is hillier and more scenic. **Balatonfüred** is the elegant old spa town, with a lakeside promenade, a heart hospital founded on its mineral springs and an annual wine festival. The **Tihany peninsula** is the lake's jewel: a hilltop **Benedictine Abbey** founded in 1055, an echo hill, lavender fields in early summer and walking trails around two small inner lakes. Further west, the vineyards of **Badacsony** climb the slopes of an extinct volcano, with tasting terraces and great views, and **Szigliget** has a castle ruin above the village.

Keszthely and Hévíz

At the western tip, **Keszthely** is a lively small town with the grand **Festetics Palace**, one of the largest baroque palaces in Hungary, and a lakeside beach. A few kilometres away, **Hévíz** has the largest biologically active natural thermal lake in the world you can swim in. The water stays warm even in winter, and you swim among water lilies from wooden piers. It is a lovely year round stop.

The Balaton Uplands

Inland from the north shore, the **Balaton Uplands National Park** has basalt hills, the stone sea at **Kál basin**, the cave lake at **Tapolca** where you row under the town, and quiet villages with wineries and farm restaurants. The **Káli basin** has become popular with Budapest food lovers for its weekend markets and small bistros.

Things to do

Swim from a strand, rent a stand up paddle board, take a sailing trip or catch the ferry across from Szántód to Tihany. Cycle part of the roughly two hundred kilometre bike route around the lake, which is mostly flat. Taste Olaszrizling and Kéknyelű wines in Badacsony and Balatonfüred. In summer, festivals include the **Balaton Sound** electronic music festival at Zamárdi, the **Balatonfüred Wine Weeks** and the **Valley of Arts** in the villages of the Kapolcs area.

Getting there and around

Trains from Budapest Déli and Kelenföld stations run to both shores, and summer fast trains reach Siófok and Balatonfüred in under two hours. Buses fill the gaps. BAHART ferries and pleasure boats cross the lake in season. Bikes are easy to rent in most towns.

Practical tips

July and August are busy and accommodation books up early, especially on weekends. In June and September the water is still swimmable and the crowds are gone. Storms can arrive quickly: watch for the flashing storm warning lights around the lake and leave the water when they speed up. Many restaurants and beach bars close from late autumn until spring.