At a glance
- Best for
- Culture, markets, museums and city life
- Time needed
- One to two days
- Getting there
- Express bus or drive along the Queens Road from Nadi, or a short domestic flight to Nausori
- When to visit
- Any time; expect rain showers year round
- Language
- English, iTaukei and Fiji Hindi
- Good to know
- Most shops close early on Saturday and much of the city is quiet on Sunday
Why visit Suva
Many holidaymakers never leave the west of Fiji, and they miss the country's heart. Suva is home to the national museum, the parliament, the University of the South Pacific and the regional offices of Pacific governments and aid groups, which gives the city a cosmopolitan, energetic feel. Colonial buildings stand next to modern towers, and the market is one of the busiest in the region. It is also the best place to see everyday life rather than tourism.
The main sights
Start at the **Fiji Museum** inside the **Thurston Gardens**, a shady botanical garden near the waterfront. The museum holds the finest collection of Fijian cultural objects anywhere: war clubs, double-hulled canoe parts, masi cloth, pottery and displays on the arrival of Indian indentured labourers, the girmitiya, from 1879. Allow at least an hour or two.
From the gardens, walk along **Victoria Parade** past the grand **Government Buildings** and the old **Grand Pacific Hotel**, restored to its colonial elegance, and the **Albert Park** sports ground. The **Suva Municipal Market** near the bus station is a vast, noisy, colourful place: kava sellers upstairs, mountains of dalo and tropical fruit downstairs, and fish and seafood next door. Saturday morning is the busiest and best time to go. The **Suva Flea Market** and handicraft centre are close by for souvenirs.
Colo-i-Suva Forest Park
About twenty to thirty minutes inland by bus or taxi, **Colo-i-Suva Forest Park** protects rainforest, mahogany plantations and a series of natural swimming holes and small waterfalls joined by walking trails. It is a beautiful, cool escape and great for birdwatching. Go in daylight with company, take your valuables only if needed, and check locally on trail conditions after heavy rain.
Beyond the city
East of Suva, the **Rewa River** delta and the town of Nausori lead to boat trips out to small villages and the historic island of **Bau**, once the seat of a powerful chiefdom (visits need permission and should be arranged through a recognised guide). South of the city, **Pacific Harbour** on the Coral Coast is about an hour away for diving with bull sharks and rafting the Upper Navua river. Ferries to Ovalau and the old capital **Levuka**, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, leave from the Suva area.
Food and nightlife
Suva has the most varied food scene in Fiji. Try curry and roti at simple Indo-Fijian cafés, fresh kokoda, Chinese restaurants, and the cafés along Victoria Parade and in the Tappoo City and MHCC shopping centres. Friday night is when the city goes out, and the bars and clubs around Victoria Parade get busy. For a quieter evening, watch a local rugby match at the ANZ National Stadium if one is on.
Getting there and around
Suva is roughly four to five hours from Nadi by road on the Queens Road through the Coral Coast, or a little longer on the Kings Road around the north. Express coaches link the two cities several times a day. Nausori Airport, about thirty to forty minutes from the centre, has domestic flights to Taveuni, Savusavu, Kadavu and the outer islands, plus a few international routes. In town, taxis are plentiful and inexpensive; agree the fare or ask for the meter.
Where to stay
The city has business hotels, the restored Grand Pacific Hotel, serviced apartments and a handful of guesthouses. The Victoria Parade waterfront area is convenient and walkable by day. See our places to visit list for ideas, and the Coral Coast guide if you want a beach on the way.
Tips for a smooth visit
Bring an umbrella or light rain jacket: Suva is one of the wettest capitals in the Pacific. Dress a little more conservatively than at a resort, especially in government buildings and churches. Keep an eye on bags in the market and bus station, and take a taxi at night rather than walking.
Questions about Suva
Is Suva worth visiting on a short trip?
If you have a week or more, yes. A day or two in Suva shows a side of Fiji the resorts do not, and the Fiji Museum alone is worth the journey.
Is Suva safe for tourists?
Generally yes by day. Pickpocketing and opportunistic theft happen around the market and bus station, and you should take taxis after dark rather than walking.
Are there beaches in Suva?
Not good swimming beaches. Suva is a harbour city. For beaches, head west to Pacific Harbour and the Coral Coast, or out to the islands.
What day is best for the Suva market?
Saturday morning, when farmers and fishermen bring in their produce and the whole city comes to shop. Sunday is very quiet as much of Fiji goes to church.
Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.
