Lalibela: a guide to the rock-hewn churches

A safety note first

Lalibela lies in the Amhara region, where conflict since 2023 has led several governments to advise against all or all but essential travel. Flights and tourism have been disrupted at times. Read your own government's current advice before you book, check that flights are running, and be ready to change plans. If advice allows travel, fly rather than drive.

The northern group of churches

The northern cluster holds Bete Medhane Alem, thought to be the largest monolithic church in the world, with its forest of square columns, and Bete Maryam, perhaps the oldest and most richly painted. Nearby are Bete Meskel, Bete Danagel and the twin chapels of Bete Golgotha and Bete Mikael, where men only may enter some areas.

The eastern group

Across the channel known as the Jordan River, the eastern churches include Bete Amanuel, with its finely carved walls, Bete Merkorios and Bete Abba Libanos. A dark tunnel walk links some of them, symbolising the passage from hell to heaven. Bring a small torch and wear shoes you can slip off easily, since you remove them in every church.

Bete Giyorgis

Standing apart to the west, Bete Giyorgis, the Church of Saint George, is the image everyone knows: a perfect cross carved straight down into the rock, its roof level with the ground. Visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the light warms the stone, and look down from the rim before climbing down the trench.

Festivals

Lalibela is the most moving place in Ethiopia to see Genna, Orthodox Christmas, on 7 January, when thousands of pilgrims gather and priests chant on the rim of Bete Maryam. Timkat, Epiphany, around 19 January, is also spectacular. Rooms sell out months ahead, so book early if advice allows.

Beyond the churches

Asheton Maryam monastery sits on a peak above town, reached by a steep walk or mule ride with sweeping views. Yemrehanna Kristos, a cave church built inside a cavern about an hour away, is older than most of the town's churches and well worth the trip. Na'akuto La'ab is a smaller cave monastery close to town.

Practical tips

One ticket covers the main church groups for several days, and you can check the current fee at the site. A licensed local guide is strongly recommended, since there is little signage and the history comes alive with good storytelling. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and women may want a scarf. Ask before photographing priests or pilgrims, and never use flash on the paintings.

Where to stay and eat

Lalibela has lodges on the hillside with views across the valley, mid-range hotels and simple guesthouses. Ben Abeba, a spiral-shaped restaurant on the ridge, is famous for its sunset views. Local places serve injera, tibs and fasting food, and tej, honey wine, is sold in small houses around town.

How to fit it into a trip

Most visitors fly in from Addis Ababa or Gondar and fly out again, since roads are long and affected by security. Two nights is the minimum to see the churches without rushing.