Gondar: castles and churches of the old capital

A safety note first

Gondar is in the Amhara region, which has seen armed conflict and periods of curfew since 2023. Many governments advise against all or all but essential travel to much of the region. Read your government's current advice before booking, and expect that plans may need to change at short notice.

Fasil Ghebbi, the royal enclosure

The heart of Gondar is Fasil Ghebbi, a walled compound of castles, palaces, libraries and banqueting halls built by successive emperors. The oldest and grandest is the castle of Emperor Fasilides, with its battlements and towers that mix Ethiopian, Portuguese and Indian influences. Wander through the shells of the later palaces, the lion cages once used for royal lions and the gardens. A guide helps bring the story of the emperors and their courts to life.

Debre Berhan Selassie

A short walk or ride from the centre, the church of Debre Berhan Selassie is famous for its ceiling covered with rows of winged angels' faces, all looking down at you. The walls are painted floor to ceiling with saints and Bible scenes. It is a small, calm place, and one of the finest examples of Ethiopian church art anywhere.

Fasilides' Bath and Timkat

North-west of the centre, Fasilides' Bath is a two-storey stone pavilion set in a large pool, shaded by fig trees whose roots climb its walls. For most of the year it is empty and quiet, but at Timkat, Ethiopian Epiphany around 19 January, the pool is filled and crowds of the faithful jump in after a blessing. It is one of the most joyful festivals in the country.

Other sights

The ruins of Kuskuam, the palace of Empress Mentewab, sit on a hill outside town. The Falasha village of Wolleka recalls Ethiopia's Beta Israel Jewish community, most of whom moved to Israel. The Piazza area has Italian-era buildings and lively cafés.

Gateway to the Simien Mountains

Gondar is the usual base for trips to the Simien Mountains National Park. The park headquarters at Debark is a couple of hours' drive north, and most treks are arranged in Gondar, with scouts, guides and transport included.

Food and drink

Gondar has simple restaurants serving injera, tibs and shiro, and cafés in the Piazza for coffee and cake. Four Sisters is a well-known restaurant with traditional decor and cultural evenings. Try tej, the local honey wine, in a tej bet.

Where to stay and getting around

There are mid-range hotels in the centre and on the hills with views over the city, plus simpler guesthouses. Bajaj, the blue three-wheeled taxis, are the easiest way to get around town and should be agreed on price before you get in. Most visitors fly in from Addis Ababa, as road journeys are long and affected by the security situation.

How to fit it into a trip

Gondar pairs naturally with Bahir Dar, a few hours' drive south, and with the Simien Mountains to the north. Allow at least two nights, more if you plan to trek or are visiting for Timkat.

Etiquette

Dress modestly at churches, remove your shoes before entering and ask before photographing priests or worshippers. Licensed guides can be arranged at the entrance to Fasil Ghebbi.