At a glance
- Best for
- Temples, royal tombs and balloon flights
- Airport
- Luxor International Airport
- Time needed
- Two to three days
- Best season
- October to April
- Getting there
- Flight, sleeper train or Nile cruise
- Getting around
- Taxis, calèches, bicycles and the local ferry
Why visit Luxor
For more than a thousand years Thebes was the religious heart of Egypt, and the pharaohs built here on a staggering scale. Today Luxor is a manageable town of about half a million people, and almost everything worth seeing is a short ride from your hotel. If Cairo is the introduction, Luxor is the main event.
The East Bank
The modern town and its two great temples lie on the East Bank. **Karnak** is a vast complex of temples, obelisks and the forest of columns in the Great Hypostyle Hall; arrive at opening time and allow three hours. **Luxor Temple** sits in the town centre and is beautiful after dark, when it is lit up. The **Avenue of Sphinxes** links the two. The **Luxor Museum** is small, well lit and calm, and the **Mummification Museum** on the Corniche is a curious short visit.
The West Bank
Cross by the local ferry or the bridge to the land of the dead. The **Valley of the Kings** holds the tombs of New Kingdom pharaohs, including Tutankhamun's, with a standard ticket covering several tombs and extra tickets for special ones such as Seti I. Nearby are the **Temple of Hatshepsut** at Deir el Bahari, the **Ramesseum**, **Medinet Habu** with its brilliant carved colour, the **Valley of the Queens**, the **Tombs of the Nobles** and the **Colossi of Memnon**. Start early: the West Bank is very hot by late morning.
Balloons at sunrise
A hot air balloon over the West Bank at dawn is one of Egypt's great experiences. Flights run most mornings when the wind allows. Book a licensed operator through your hotel or a trusted agency, and accept that flights can be cancelled for weather on the day.
Where to stay
The East Bank Corniche has the large hotels and the grand old Winter Palace. The West Bank is quieter, with family run guesthouses among sugarcane fields and views to the hills, ideal for early starts at the tombs.
Food and drink
Eat grilled pigeon, molokhia and tagines in simple West Bank restaurants, or dine with a temple view on a rooftop. Sugarcane juice stands are everywhere. Hotels and a few restaurants serve beer and Egyptian wine.
Getting there and around
EgyptAir flies from Cairo in about an hour. The overnight sleeper train from Cairo is an adventure in itself, and three to four night Nile cruises link Luxor with Aswan. In town, use taxis, agree the fare first, or take a calèche for short rides. Cycling the West Bank in the cool of morning is a joy.
Tips
Touts and felucca captains can be persistent on the Corniche, so a firm, friendly "la, shukran" (no, thank you) works best. Carry water, a hat and small notes for toilets and tips.
When to go
October to April is the best time, with warm, dry days. December and January are busiest, so book balloons, cruises and good West Bank guesthouses early. From May to September, midday heat is intense: visit sites from opening time until late morning, rest through the afternoon and head out again at sunset.
Combining Luxor with the coast
Luxor is about four hours by road from Hurghada, so it pairs well with a beach stay. Some resorts sell long day trips to Luxor, but staying at least one night makes the experience far less rushed.
Questions about Luxor
How many days do I need in Luxor?
Two full days covers the East and West Banks. A third day lets you add Dendera and Abydos to the north or a slower pace.
Is a Luxor balloon ride safe?
Flights operate under civil aviation rules and run most mornings. Choose a licensed operator, follow the crew's landing instructions and accept weather cancellations.
Can I see Tutankhamun's tomb?
Yes, with a separate ticket at the Valley of the Kings. His treasures are now in the Grand Egyptian Museum in Giza.
Which bank should I stay on?
The East Bank for restaurants, shops and nightlife; the West Bank for calm, views and early starts at the tombs.
Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.
