Alexandria: a first-timer's guide to Egypt's Mediterranean city

Why visit Alexandria

For centuries Alexandria was the greatest city of the Mediterranean, home to the Pharos lighthouse and the legendary library. Much of the ancient city lies under the modern one or beneath the harbour, but its spirit survives in its sea breezes, its Greek and Italian era buildings and its love of good food. Egyptians flock here in summer; in spring and autumn it is pleasantly calm.

Neighbourhoods to know

• **Raml Station and Mansheya:** the old centre, with historic cafés, the tram terminus and the faded grandeur of the colonial era.
• **The Corniche:** a seafront road running from the Citadel of Qaitbay east for miles, best enjoyed at sunset.
• **Anfoushi and Bahary:** the old fishing quarter around the Western Harbour, full of seafood restaurants.
• **Stanley and San Stefano:** smarter districts with the Stanley Bridge, beach clubs and modern hotels.
• **Montaza:** the royal palace gardens at the eastern end of the city.

Things to do

Visit the **Bibliotheca Alexandrina**, a striking modern library with museums and exhibitions inside. Walk out to the **Citadel of Qaitbay**, built on the site of the ancient lighthouse. Descend into the **Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa**, a strange and wonderful blend of Egyptian, Greek and Roman art. See **Pompey's Pillar** and the Serapeum, the **Roman Amphitheatre** at Kom el Dikka, and the **Alexandria National Museum**. The restored **Graeco-Roman Museum** is worth checking for opening hours. End the day in the **Montaza Palace** gardens or on a bench on the Corniche.

Food and drink

Alexandria is Egypt's seafood capital. Choose your fish on ice by weight in Anfoushi and have it grilled or baked with rice and salads. Try liver sandwiches, called kebda iskandarani, at street stalls, and finish with ice cream or sweets in Raml Station. Old cafés such as Trianon and Délices serve pastries in grand interiors.

Getting there and around

Trains leave Cairo's Ramses Station many times a day and take about two and a half to three hours; the faster services are the most comfortable. Buses and private drivers also make the run. Borg El Arab airport, west of the city, has some international flights. In town, the yellow trams are slow but charming, and ride hailing apps work well.

Beyond the city

Alexandria is the gateway to the North Coast resorts, the World War Two cemeteries at El Alamein, and, far to the west, the Siwa Oasis.

Tips

Summer is crowded and beaches are busy with families; dress modestly away from beach clubs. Winter can bring wind and rain, which is rare elsewhere in Egypt.

A suggested day

Begin with coffee and pastries at a historic café near Raml Station, then visit the catacombs and Pompey's Pillar. After a seafood lunch in Anfoushi, walk to the Citadel of Qaitbay and along the Corniche to the Bibliotheca Alexandrina. End with ice cream as the lights come on along the bay.