The Troodos Mountains: painted churches, pine forests and wine villages

Why go

Troodos shows a quieter, older Cyprus. Villages still make halloumi, rose water, zivania spirit and sweet preserves, and summer temperatures are often ten degrees cooler than the coast. It is a joy for walkers, lovers of churches and art, wine drinkers and anyone who wants slow days. In winter, the slopes of Mount Olympos often have enough snow for a small ski area.

The painted churches

From outside, the **Painted Churches of the Troodos Region** look like simple barns with steep wooden roofs. Inside, every wall is covered in frescoes from the eleventh to the sixteenth centuries. Highlights include **Agios Nikolaos tis Stegis** near Kakopetria, **Panagia tou Araka** at Lagoudera, **Panagia Forviotissa (Asinou)** near Nikitari and **Stavros tou Agiasmati** near Platanistasa. Opening hours vary and a caretaker often holds the key, so check times before you go and dress modestly.

Kykkos Monastery

**Kykkos Monastery**, high in the western forests, is the richest and best known monastery in Cyprus, founded around 1100 and home to an icon of the Virgin said to be painted by Saint Luke. Its mosaics, golden interiors and museum of religious treasures are impressive. Archbishop Makarios, the first president of Cyprus, is buried on a hilltop nearby at **Throni**.

Villages

**Kakopetria** has an old quarter of timber balconied houses by a river, and makes a good base. **Omodos**, on the southern slopes, has a large monastery, a cobbled square and wineries. **Platres** is the classic hill resort with old hotels and forest walks. **Lofou**, **Vouni**, **Fikardou** and **Pedoulas** are smaller, quieter and lovely to wander. **Agros** is known for its rose festival and rose water products.

Walking and waterfalls

Well marked nature trails start around **Troodos Square**. The **Artemis Trail** circles Mount Olympos with wide views, and the **Caledonia Trail** follows a stream through the forest to **Caledonia Falls**, one of the prettiest walks on the island. **Millomeris Falls** near Platres is another short walk. The **Troodos Botanical Garden** and visitor centre explain the geology: these mountains are a rare piece of ocean floor pushed up to the surface.

Food and wine

Try trout from local farms, village sausages called loukanika, halloumi made the traditional way and wine from the Krasochoria, the wine villages north of Limassol. Many small wineries welcome visitors for tastings; it is wise to book ahead through their websites.

Seasons

Spring brings blossom and wild flowers; autumn brings harvest and village festivals. Summer is the most popular time with Cypriots escaping the heat. In winter, snow can close high roads for a few hours, so check conditions before you drive.

Where to stay

Stay in **Platres** for hotels and forest walks, **Kakopetria** for river village charm, or one of the many restored **agrotourism** stone houses in villages such as Kalopanayiotis, Omodos and Lofou.

Getting there and around

Buses from Limassol and Nicosia reach Platres, Kakopetria and Troodos Square, but services are infrequent. Many visitors join a day tour or arrange a taxi. Plan time carefully with the free trip planner and browse the places to visit list for village tavernas and wineries.