Paphos: a first-timer's guide to Cyprus's western coast

Why go

Paphos packs more ancient history into a small area than anywhere else in Cyprus, and it is gentler and greener than the busy east. It suits families, couples, walkers and anyone who wants culture with their beach time. Its own airport makes arrival easy, and in the low season it stays mild and pleasant.

The archaeological park

The **Paphos Archaeological Park** by the harbour holds the island's most famous mosaics. The floors of the **House of Dionysos**, the **House of Theseus** and the **House of Aion** show myths, hunting scenes and gods in remarkable detail, under protective roofs. The park also includes an odeon, the Saranta Kolones castle ruins and a lighthouse. Allow at least two to three hours and go early, as there is little shade.

Tombs of the Kings and more

A short way north, the **Tombs of the Kings** are underground tombs cut into the rock, some with Doric columns around open courtyards; despite the name, they held wealthy officials rather than kings. Back in town, see **Chrysopolitissa Church** and **Saint Paul's Pillar**, where tradition says the apostle was punished, the small **Paphos Castle** on the harbour, and the **Agia Solomoni catacomb**, with its tree hung with cloth offerings.

The old town

Uphill, **Ktima** is the old centre, with the covered **municipal market**, a pedestrian street of shops and cafés, the **Paphos District Archaeological Museum** and the Byzantine Museum. It has a local feel that the harbour area lacks.

Aphrodite's Rock and the coast

Twenty five minutes east, **Petra tou Romiou**, or Aphrodite's Rock, is where the goddess was said to rise from the foam. Come at sunset, but take care: the sea here can be rough. On the way, **Kouklia** has the Sanctuary of Aphrodite. North of town, **Coral Bay** is the most popular sandy beach, and the **sea caves near Peyia** and the **Edro III shipwreck** make a good stop.

The Akamas Peninsula

The **Akamas Peninsula** is a protected wild area of rugged hills, gorges and empty coves. **Avakas Gorge** is a dramatic walk between towering walls; **Lara Bay** is a turtle nesting beach where loggerhead and green turtles lay eggs in summer; and the **Blue Lagoon** near Latchi has astonishingly clear water, best reached by boat from Latchi harbour. The **Baths of Aphrodite** and the **Aphrodite and Adonis nature trails** start near Polis. Rough tracks mean many roads here are unsuitable for normal cars, so a boat trip or guided jeep tour is the easiest option.

Villages and wine

Inland, the villages of **Kathikas**, **Pano Panagia**, **Tsada** and the **Lemba** artists' village are worth a drive. Wineries around the **Vouni Panagias** area produce some of the island's finest wines.

Where to stay

**Kato Paphos** near the harbour has most hotels and puts you within walking distance of the sights. **Coral Bay** and **Peyia** suit beach holidays and families. **Polis** and **Latchi** in the north west are quiet bases for Akamas.

Getting around

Local buses run from the harbour along the coast to Coral Bay and up to Ktima, and an airport bus serves the town. Intercity buses connect Paphos with Limassol and beyond. Shape your days with the free trip planner and the places to visit list.