Medellín: a first-timer's guide to the city of eternal spring

Why go

Medellín is lively, easy to get around and full of energy. Its story of transformation, told through public transport, public art and community projects, is inspiring and visible everywhere. The weather is close to perfect all year, the food and nightlife scene is excellent, and the countryside around it, with lakes, coffee farms and colourful towns, is close at hand.

The Metro and Metrocable

Medellín has the only metro system in Colombia, and locals treat it with real pride: it is clean, cheap and efficient. The **Metrocable** cable car lines climb the steep hillsides to neighbourhoods that were once cut off from the city. Ride line K to Santo Domingo and change to the cable car towards **Parque Arví**, a large nature reserve with trails and a weekend market on the mountain top. The cars are part of daily life, so avoid rush hour.

Comuna 13

**Comuna 13** was once one of the most dangerous districts in the city. Today its outdoor escalators, murals, hip hop dancers and community tours draw visitors from around the world. Go with a local guide who grew up there: you will hear the history first hand and your visit supports residents. It is busy and commercial at weekends, so weekday mornings are calmer.

The centre

Downtown is gritty and chaotic but worth a guided walk. **Plaza Botero** displays more than twenty bronze sculptures by Fernando Botero, who was born in Medellín, beside the **Museo de Antioquia**. Nearby are the striking **Parque de los Deseos** and the **Botanical Garden**, a calm green space with an orchid house. Keep valuables close in the centre and leave before dark.

El Poblado, Laureles and Envigado

**El Poblado** is the upmarket district where most visitors stay, with leafy streets, hotels, restaurants and the nightlife hub of **Parque Lleras** and **Provenza**. It is convenient, but nightlife areas attract scams and drugging, so stay alert. **Laureles** is flatter and more local, with tree-lined circles and good cafés along La 70 and La 33. **Envigado**, just south, feels like a small town with its own square and great local restaurants.

Food

The classic Antioquian dish is the **bandeja paisa**, a huge platter of beans, rice, ground beef, chorizo, crisp pork belly, fried egg, plantain, arepa and avocado. Try **arepas** with butter and cheese, **mazamorra** (a corn drink) and sweet **obleas**. The city also has a growing speciality coffee scene.

Day trips

**Guatapé** is the most popular day trip: a bright town where houses are decorated with painted reliefs called zócalos, next to a vast reservoir dotted with islands. Climb the 700 or so steps of **El Peñol**, a giant granite rock, for an extraordinary view. **Santa Fe de Antioquia**, a colonial town in a hot valley to the west, and **Jardín**, a coffee town of painted balconies to the south, make lovely overnight trips.

Safety

Medellín is safe for most visitors who follow basic precautions, but crimes targeting foreigners have risen, including robberies after dating app meetings and drugging with scopolamine. Never invite strangers to your room, watch your drink, use app taxis and keep your phone away on the street. Check your government's current travel advice before you go.