Guilin and Yangshuo: a guide to China's karst country

Why visit Guilin and Yangshuo

Guilin is a pleasant small city in northern Guangxi, but the real magic lies along the Li River, which winds south through karst towers to the town of Yangshuo. The scenery is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of the South China Karst, and it is just as lovely from a bicycle saddle as from a boat. Further north, the Longji rice terraces climb mountainsides worked by Zhuang and Yao villagers.

Areas to know

• **Guilin city:** the airport, the main railway stations, Elephant Trunk Hill, Reed Flute Cave and the lakes of the city centre. Good for a night or two.
• **Yangshuo:** the riverside town an hour south by road or train, with West Street's busy bars and restaurants, and countryside guesthouses all around. The best base for most visitors.
• **Xingping:** a quieter old village on the Li River, by the view on the banknote.
• **Longji (Longsheng):** the Dragon's Backbone rice terraces, about two hours north of Guilin, with the villages of Ping'an and Dazhai.

What to see and do

The Li River cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo is the classic trip, a slow day on the water past peaks with names like Nine Horses Fresco Hill. Many travellers prefer a shorter bamboo raft trip between Yangdi and Xingping, which covers the most dramatic stretch. In Yangshuo, rent a bicycle or e-bike and ride the lanes beside the Yulong River, past Dragon Bridge, an old stone bridge from the Ming dynasty. Climb Xianggong Hill or Laozhai Hill for sunrise views over the river bends, and walk the trail along the riverbank from Xingping.

Yangshuo is also one of Asia's best rock climbing areas, with guiding shops in town, and offers cooking classes, kayaking, caving and the evening Impression Liu Sanjie light show set on the river itself.

At Longji, stay overnight in a wooden guesthouse in Ping'an or Dazhai and hike the terrace trails. They are filled with water in spring, green in summer and golden before the harvest in late September and October.

Food

Try Guilin rice noodles, served with braised meat, peanuts and pickles, and Yangshuo's beer fish, cooked with tomatoes, peppers and local beer. Stuffed snails and bamboo rice cooked in tubes are other local favourites.

Getting there and around

Guilin Liangjiang Airport has domestic flights from most big cities and some regional international routes. High-speed trains link Guilin and Yangshuo stations to Guangzhou, Shenzhen and Hong Kong West Kowloon. Yangshuo's station is some way from town, so allow time for a shuttle bus or taxi.

Tips for a smooth visit

Spring is misty and green, summer hot with heavy showers and occasional river closures after floods, and autumn is clear and comfortable. Book river cruises through official channels or your hotel. Pack insect repellent and good walking shoes.

A simple three day plan

Day one: arrive in Guilin, see Elephant Trunk Hill and take the evening lakes cruise. Day two: the Li River to Yangshuo, then sunset from a hilltop. Day three: cycle the Yulong River in the morning and try a cooking class or a raft in the afternoon, with an extra night at Longji if time allows.