Beijing: a first-timer's guide to China's capital

Why visit Beijing

Few cities hold so many world class sights. The Forbidden City is the largest surviving palace complex on earth, the Temple of Heaven is a masterpiece of Ming design, and the Summer Palace sets pavilions and covered walkways around a lake. Seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites lie in and around the city, including several stretches of the Great Wall. Between the monuments is a city of courtyard homes, noodle shops, parks full of dancers and calligraphers, and some of the best roast duck you will ever eat.

Neighbourhoods to know

• **Dongcheng:** the historic heart, with the Forbidden City, Jingshan Park, the Lama Temple and the hutongs around Nanluoguxiang and Gulou. The best base for first-timers.
• **Xicheng:** the lakes of Shichahai and Houhai, Beihai Park and quieter lanes, lively with bars after dark.
• **Qianmen and Dashilar:** the old merchant quarter south of Tiananmen, good for traditional shops and easy access to the Temple of Heaven.
• **Chaoyang and Sanlitun:** the modern east, with embassies, malls, international restaurants and the 798 Art District further out.
• **Haidian:** the university district in the northwest, close to the Summer Palace and Old Summer Palace.

What to see and do

Start at the Forbidden City, which needs a ticket booked online in advance with your passport number. Enter from the south through the Meridian Gate, leave by the north gate, then climb Jingshan Park for the classic view over the golden roofs. Visit the Temple of Heaven early in the morning when locals practise tai chi and play cards in the long corridor. Spend an afternoon on the Summer Palace's lake, and an evening wandering the hutongs between the Drum and Bell Towers.

For the Great Wall, Mutianyu is the best choice for most visitors: restored, beautiful, less crowded than Badaling and with a cable car and toboggan run. Jinshanling and Simatai offer wilder walking further out, while Badaling is the easiest by train but the busiest. Plan a full day for any section.

Other highlights include the Lama Temple, the Ming Tombs, the 798 Art District, the National Museum on Tiananmen Square and an acrobatics or Peking opera show.

Food

Peking duck is the city's signature, carved at the table and wrapped in thin pancakes with scallions and sweet sauce. Try zhajiangmian noodles with bean sauce, jiaozi dumplings, lamb hotpot in winter and jianbing crepes from street stalls for breakfast. Ghost Street (Guijie) is famous for late night crayfish and spicy food.

Getting there and around

Beijing has two international airports: Capital in the northeast and Daxing in the south, both linked to the city by express trains. Beijing South station is the hub for high-speed trains to Shanghai and Xi'an. The metro is clean, cheap and signed in English, and DiDi ride hailing works well with an international card. Security checks at metro stations and Tiananmen Square are routine, so carry your passport.

Tips for a smooth visit

Book the Forbidden City, the National Museum and Tiananmen Square entry online days ahead, as slots sell out. Avoid the Golden Week holiday in early October and Labour Day in early May if you can. Spring brings occasional dust storms and winter is cold and dry but beautifully clear and quiet.