Shanghai: a first-timer's guide to China's great city

Why visit Shanghai

Shanghai grew from a fishing town into a treaty port in the nineteenth century, and its history shows in every street: the stone banks and hotels of the Bund, the plane tree lined avenues of the former French Concession and the shikumen stone gate houses of its lane neighbourhoods. Across the Huangpu River, Pudong is pure twenty first century, crowned by the Shanghai Tower. Add superb museums, rooftop bars and a food scene that runs from street stalls to fine dining, and it is easy to see why visitors love it.

Neighbourhoods to know

• **The Bund and Huangpu:** the riverfront promenade, Nanjing Road and People's Square, close to the Shanghai Museum. Central for a first stay.
• **Former French Concession (Xuhui and Jing'an):** leafy streets, cafés, boutiques and historic villas around Wukang Road and Anfu Road. The nicest area to walk.
• **Jing'an:** Jing'an Temple, malls and smart hotels, with good metro links.
• **Pudong:** Lujiazui's towers, observation decks and riverside parks.
• **Old City:** Yu Garden, the City God Temple and busy traditional streets.

What to see and do

Walk the Bund at dusk, when the Pudong skyline lights up across the river, then ride to the top of the Shanghai Tower or the Jin Mao Tower for the view down. Spend a morning at the Shanghai Museum, whose bronze, ceramic and painting galleries are among the finest in China, and visit the newer Shanghai Museum East in Pudong. Wander Yu Garden early before the tour groups, then lose an afternoon in the French Concession's lanes and the Tianzifang and Xintiandi shikumen quarters.

Art lovers should head to the West Bund riverside, home to the Long Museum and the Yuz Museum, and to the Power Station of Art. Evening options include acrobatics shows, jazz at the Peace Hotel and cocktail bars across the old concession areas.

Day trips

High-speed trains reach Suzhou's classical gardens in about half an hour and Hangzhou's West Lake in about an hour. Canal towns such as Zhujiajiao, reachable by metro, and Wuzhen and Xitang further out show the stone bridges and waterways of old Jiangnan.

Food

Shanghai's soup dumplings, xiaolongbao, are a must, as are pan fried shengjian bao, red braised pork belly, scallion oil noodles and hairy crab in autumn. The city also has some of China's best restaurants from every region.

Getting there and around

Pudong Airport handles most long haul flights, linked by metro Line 2 and the Maglev train to Longyang Road. Hongqiao Airport sits next to Hongqiao railway station, the hub for trains to Beijing, Suzhou and Hangzhou. The metro is one of the largest in the world and fully signed in English.

Tips for a smooth visit

Summer is hot, humid and stormy, and the plum rains arrive in June. Book popular restaurants and observation decks ahead at weekends, and avoid the Bund on national holiday evenings when crowds are enormous.

A simple three day plan

Day one: the Bund in the morning, the Shanghai Museum, Yu Garden and the skyline from Pudong at night. Day two: the former French Concession on foot, Tianzifang and the West Bund museums. Day three: a canal town or a quick train to Suzhou, back for dinner and jazz.