Valparaíso Region

Valparaíso: the painted port on the hills

Valparaíso, Valpo to everyone in Chile, is a city that tumbles down more than forty hills to a working harbour. Its historic quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a maze of stairways, alleys and lookouts lined with houses painted every colour you can think of and walls covered in murals. It was once the busiest port on the Pacific coast of South America, and its faded grandeur, bohemian spirit and seafood make it a highlight of any trip.

Ascensor El Peral, tipo funicular, año 1902, Valparaíso, Chile
Photo: CARLOS TEIXIDOR CADENAS, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Street art, architecture, views and seafood
Gateway
Santiago airport, then about 90 minutes by bus
Time needed
One to two nights
Best season
October to April, and New Year's Eve
Getting around
Walking, funiculars, trolleybuses and colectivos
Good base
Cerro Alegre or Cerro Concepción

The hills to know

  • **Cerro Alegre** and **Cerro Concepción** are the heart of visitor Valparaíso: restored mansions, boutique hotels, cafés, galleries and viewpoints such as Paseo Gervasoni and Paseo Atkinson. They are the safest and easiest base.
  • **Cerro Bellavista** holds the Museo a Cielo Abierto, an open air museum of murals along winding streets, and **La Sebastiana**, Pablo Neruda's house with a view across the bay.
  • **Cerro Artillería** has the Paseo 21 de Mayo lookout over the port cranes and the Naval and Maritime Museum.
  • **Cerro Panteón** is home to the atmospheric cemeteries, including the Cementerio de Disidentes where foreign Protestant merchants were buried.

The funiculars

Valparaíso's ascensores, the old funicular lifts, are part of the fun. Several have been restored and run regularly, including Reina Victoria, Concepción and El Peral up to Cerro Alegre, and Artillería up to its lookout. Which ones are open changes with repairs, so ask locally.

What to do

Wander, mostly. Join a free walking tour from the Plaza Sotomayor area to learn the history of the port and its murals, take a boat ride from Muelle Prat to see the navy ships and sea lions, and visit the **Palacio Baburizza**, the city's fine arts museum in an art nouveau mansion. Eat a chorrillana, a huge plate of fries topped with steak, onions and eggs, at a traditional bar in the flat lower town, El Plan, and try fresh seafood empanadas.

On New Year's Eve, Valparaíso hosts one of the biggest fireworks displays in South America over the bay. Book rooms months ahead.

Nearby

  • **Viña del Mar** is the neat, modern beach resort next door, with the flower clock, Wulff Castle, gardens and a long seafront. In February it hosts the famous Viña del Mar International Song Festival.
  • **Casablanca Valley** wineries line the highway to Santiago and make an easy stop for cool climate Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.
  • **Isla Negra**, an hour south, has Neruda's favourite house, packed with his collections from the sea.

Staying safe

Valparaíso has a real problem with street crime. Muggings and bag snatching happen, especially in El Plan near the port and bus terminal, on the quieter stairways and hills away from Alegre and Concepción, and after dark. Walk with others, carry only what you need, keep cameras and phones away when no one else is around, and take a taxi or ride app at night. Ask your hotel which streets to avoid. Read more in our Santiago guide on connections back to the capital.

Find cafés, bars and stays in our places to visit list, and plan the coast into your route with the free trip planner.

Questions about Valparaíso

Is Valparaíso a day trip from Santiago?

It can be, but an overnight stay is far better. You get the evening light over the bay and a calmer morning before the day trippers arrive.

How do I get there from Santiago?

Buses leave every few minutes from Terminal Alameda and Terminal Pajaritos and take about ninety minutes. From the airport, some transfer services run direct.

Is Valparaíso safe?

Stick to Cerro Alegre, Cerro Concepción and busy areas by day, use taxis at night and keep valuables out of sight. Check your government's travel advice before you go.

What should I eat in Valparaíso?

Order a chorrillana to share in a traditional bar in El Plan, seafood empanadas or a paila marina stew near the port, and finish with coffee and cake on Cerro Alegre. In Viña del Mar, try the famous cheese and seafood empanadas at the small shops near the seafront.

How steep are the hills?

Very. Wear comfortable shoes with good grip, use the funiculars and colectivos to save your legs, and plan to walk downhill rather than up wherever you can.

Should I stay in Valparaíso or Viña del Mar?

Valparaíso for character, history and views; Viña del Mar for beaches, modern hotels and a quieter evening. They are linked by the Merval train and frequent buses.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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