Mindelo: the music and Carnival capital of Cabo Verde

The city centre

Walk the waterfront **Avenida Marginal** to the **Torre de Belém**, a small copy of Lisbon's famous tower that now holds a modest museum. Behind it, the streets climb past the colourful **Palácio do Povo**, the old governor's palace, to **Rua de Lisboa**, the main café street, and the **Praça Nova**, where families stroll in the evening. The **Mercado Municipal**, a pretty colonial market hall, sells fruit, vegetables and grogue, while the **fish market** on the waterfront is a lively morning scene. Look out for murals of Cesária Évora and the **Centro Cultural do Mindelo** for exhibitions.

Music

Mindelo is where **morna**, the bittersweet ballad music of longing, and **coladeira**, its faster cousin, took shape. Cesária Évora brought morna to the world, and in 2019 UNESCO recognised it as intangible cultural heritage. Many restaurants and bars have live music from early evening, and on weekends sessions run late. Ask locally where musicians are playing that night, as venues change. Her house and grave can also be visited.

Carnival and festivals

Mindelo's **Carnival** in February, before Lent, is the biggest in the country, with months of preparation, huge floats, samba style groups and costumed parades on the Tuesday. The **Baía das Gatas Festival**, held over a weekend around the August full moon, is a famous open air music festival by the sea. Book accommodation well ahead for both.

Beaches and views

**Laginha**, a short walk north of the port, is the city beach, with calm water and a promenade. **Baía das Gatas**, on the east coast, has a natural pool protected by a reef. **São Pedro**, near the airport, is a fishing village with a long beach and strong winds. **Calhau** in the south east is a quiet village with volcanic scenery. For the best view, take a taxi up **Monte Verde**, the island's highest point, on a clear morning.

Food

Mindelo has some of the country's best food. Try **cachupa** for breakfast, fried or fresh, grilled fish and **lagosta** in season, **polvo** (octopus) and **pastel com diabo dentro**, a spicy tuna pastry. Finish with **grogue**, the local sugar cane spirit, or **ponche**, its sweet cousin.

Staying safe

Mindelo is relaxed by day. At night, petty theft and muggings happen, particularly on quiet streets and near the port, so take taxis late and keep phones out of sight during Carnival crowds.

Onward to Santo Antão

Daily ferries run from Mindelo's port to **Porto Novo** on Santo Antão in about an hour. The crossing can be rough; take seasickness tablets if you are prone. Most people spend two or three nights in Mindelo before or after their hike. See places to visit for music bars and restaurants.

A suggested few days

Day one, wander the centre slowly: coffee on Rua de Lisboa, the market hall, the Torre de Belém and the waterfront, then dinner with live music. Day two, take a taxi round the island to Baía das Gatas, Calhau and São Pedro, or up Monte Verde for the view, and return for a late night of coladeira. If you are here in February, the days before Carnival are full of rehearsals, street parties and costumed groups, a highlight in themselves. Save energy for the ferry the next morning.

Getting there

Cesária Évora Airport, near São Pedro, has some international flights from Lisbon and other European cities plus domestic links to Sal and Praia. It is about fifteen minutes to the centre by taxi.