São Paulo: a first-timer's guide to Brazil's biggest city

The neighbourhoods to know

• **Avenida Paulista** is the main artery, lined with banks, cultural centres and the MASP museum. On Sundays it closes to cars and becomes a giant street party.
• **Jardins** is the smart area just south of Paulista, with leafy streets, boutiques and fine dining.
• **Pinheiros and Vila Madalena** are the creative neighbourhoods, full of bars, street art, independent shops and live music.
• **Liberdade** is the historic Japanese district, now home to Chinese and Korean communities too, with lantern lined streets and a weekend street food fair.
• **Centro** holds the old cathedral, the Municipal Market, the Copan building and the Theatro Municipal. It is fascinating by day but best explored with care.
• **Ibirapuera** is the great park, ringed by museums and Niemeyer buildings.

What to do

Eat. São Paulo has a restaurant for every cuisine and every budget, from the famous mortadella sandwich at the Mercado Municipal to some of the most celebrated tasting menus in Latin America. Try a pizza, which paulistanos take extremely seriously, a Japanese meal in Liberdade and a classic Brazilian lunch of rice, beans and steak at a neighbourhood lanchonete.

Between meals, see the MASP collection, the Pinacoteca, the Museu Afro Brasil and the interactive Museu do Futebol. Wander the street art of Beco do Batman, spend a morning running or cycling in Ibirapuera, and catch live samba, jazz or electronic music at night. On Sundays, browse the antiques market under MASP and join the crowds on Paulista.

Getting around

The metro and suburban trains are efficient, clean and the best way to beat traffic, which can be extreme at rush hour. Ride apps are cheap and convenient, especially at night. Guarulhos airport is a long way from the centre, so allow plenty of time, and use the airport train link or a ride app.

Staying safe

As in any huge city, petty crime is the main risk. Keep phones out of sight on the street, be careful around the centre, Luz and Praça da Sé after dark, and use ride apps rather than walking empty streets at night. Read your government's travel advice before you go.

A day in São Paulo

Start with coffee and pão de queijo in Pinheiros, take the metro to the Mercado Municipal for a mortadella sandwich, then walk to the Pinacoteca and Jardim da Luz. In the afternoon, see MASP on Avenida Paulista and stroll into Jardins. Finish with dinner in Vila Madalena and live samba at a neighbourhood bar.

When to visit

São Paulo works all year. Summer brings afternoon storms, winter can be cool at night. The Pride march, the São Paulo Biennial in some years and the Formula One Grand Prix at Interlagos are big events.

Where to stay

First-timers usually stay around Avenida Paulista, Jardins or Pinheiros, close to the metro and the best restaurants. Vila Madalena suits a younger, nightlife focused stay. See our places to visit for food and drink picks, and use the free trip planner to fit the city into your route.