Lankaran: a first-timer's guide to Azerbaijan's green south

Why go

Lankaran is the place to see Azerbaijan's green side and to taste its best regional food. It is quiet, warm, friendly and still off the main tourist trail, which is part of its charm.

Hirkan National Park

**Hirkan National Park** protects a relict forest of ironwood, chestnut leaved oak and other trees that survived the Ice Age here. It is home to rare wildlife, including the Caucasian leopard in its remote corners. Walking trails start near the park centre, and the forest is lush and cool even in summer.

Tea and citrus

The hills around Lankaran and Astara are covered with **tea plantations**, and the region produces most of Azerbaijan's tea. Visiting a tea garden and drinking a glass on the spot is the classic experience. Citrus orchards, feijoa and rice fields add to the landscape, and the **Lankaran bazaar** is full of southern produce.

In town

Lankaran has a round **fortress tower** and lighthouse, the red brick **Mir Mustafa Khan Palace** and a pleasant seafront. The town's Caspian **beaches** are quiet and backed by fields and forest, although the water is not as clear as on tropical coasts.

Lerik and Astara

Inland, the mountain district of **Lerik** is famous for its long lived residents and green villages with views over the Talysh hills. South along the coast, **Astara** is the border town with Iran, with more tea gardens and a frontier feel. Remember that crossing into Iran is a separate trip with its own visa rules.

Food

The south has its own cuisine. **Lavangi**, chicken or fish stuffed with walnuts, onion and sour plum paste, then roasted, is the signature dish. Try **plov** southern style, fresh fish from the Caspian, local honey and plenty of tea with lemon and jam. Many families make their own jams from citrus and feijoa.

Getting there and around

Buses and trains run from Baku, and Lankaran has an airport with occasional domestic flights. Within the region, use local taxis or a driver for the national park, Lerik and the tea gardens. Agree the price before setting off.

Where to stay

Lankaran has a few comfortable hotels and wellness resorts in the forest, as well as simple guesthouses. The **Istisu** hot springs area has spa stays. Choose a place with air conditioning in summer, when the south is humid.

Practical tips

Carry cash, since card payment is less common than in Baku. English is less widely spoken, so a translation app helps. Dress a little more conservatively than in Baku, especially in villages.

A suggested two days

On day one, walk the forest trails of Hirkan National Park in the morning while it is cool, visit a tea plantation in the afternoon and finish with lavangi in town. On day two, drive up into the hills of Lerik for views and village life, or head south to Astara and its tea gardens, then return to the seafront for sunset. Spring brings fresh green tea leaves and flowers, and autumn brings citrus and feijoa to the markets. Local families are famously hospitable here, and an invitation to tea is common, so accept with a smile if you have time. The humidity can be heavy in July and August, so plan outdoor time for the mornings and late afternoons.