Gabala: a first-timer's guide to Azerbaijan's mountain forests

Why go

When Baku swelters in summer, families head for the cool air and forests of Gabala. The scenery is lush, with walnut and chestnut trees, mountain streams and peaks that hold snow into early summer. It is easy, comfortable and full of things to do.

Tufandag

The **Tufandag Mountain Resort** runs cable cars high into the mountains. In summer, the rides give sweeping views and access to walking trails and meadows; in winter, they serve ski slopes for beginners and intermediates. Go early in the day for clearer views and smaller queues.

Lakes and waterfalls

**Nohur Lake** is a calm reservoir reflecting the mountains, with paddle boats, cafés and picnic spots on its shores. The **Yeddi Gozel**, or Seven Beauties, waterfall is a series of cascades reached by a stairway through the forest in the village of Vandam. Both are best in spring and early summer when the water is high.

History

The site of **ancient Gabala** at Chukhur Gabala preserves the ruins of a city that was capital of Caucasian Albania more than two thousand years ago, with a small archaeological museum. The village of **Nij** is home to the Udi people, one of the oldest communities in the Caucasus, and their restored church is a quiet, moving place to visit.

On the road from Baku

The drive from Baku passes some of the best sights of the region. **Shamakhi**, once the capital of Shirvan, has the great **Juma Mosque**, one of the oldest in the Caucasus. The **Diri Baba Mausoleum** at Maraza is built into a cliff. A winding side road leads to **Lahij**, a car free stone village of coppersmiths where artisans still hammer pots in tiny workshops, and the cobbled lanes feel unchanged for centuries. Shamakhi and the Ismayilli hills are also wine country, with several wineries open to visitors.

Family fun

**Gabaland** is an amusement park with rides and attractions, and most resort hotels have pools, playgrounds and activities. Horse riding, quad biking and zip lines run in season. In summer, a classical music festival brings concerts to the mountains.

Food

Gabala's food is hearty mountain cooking: kebabs, fresh herbs, sheep's cheese, honey, chestnuts, walnuts and bread from clay tandir ovens sold at the roadside. Try **gutab** with greens and the local jams.

Getting there and around

Buses run from Baku, and Gabala has a small airport with occasional flights. Inside the area, distances between lakes, waterfalls and the resort are short but need a taxi or tour. Many visitors combine Gabala with Sheki, an hour and a half further on.

Where to stay

Gabala has large resort hotels, some with spas, and smaller guesthouses in the villages. Summer weekends and holidays are busy, so book ahead.

A suggested day

Take the first cable car at Tufandag for clear mountain views, then walk a meadow trail before the clouds build in the afternoon. After lunch by Nohur Lake, drive to Vandam for the Seven Beauties waterfall and finish at the ancient Gabala site at sunset. On a second day, visit Nij and its Udi church in the morning, then continue to Sheki or back to Baku via Lahij and Shamakhi. Pack a light rain jacket even in summer: mountain showers arrive quickly and the forest stays damp, so good shoes help on the waterfall steps.