Sydney: a first-timer's guide to Australia's harbour city

Why go

Few cities have a setting like Sydney. The harbour winds inland in dozens of coves and bays, the coastline is lined with sandstone cliffs and beaches, and national parks reach almost into the suburbs. Add excellent food from every corner of Asia and the Mediterranean, a strong café culture and a mild climate, and it is easy to see why many visitors leave wishing they had stayed longer.

The harbour

Start at **Circular Quay**. Walk around to the **Sydney Opera House** and take a guided tour or see a performance, then follow the foreshore into the **Royal Botanic Garden** and out to **Mrs Macquarie's Chair** for the classic view of the Opera House and bridge together. Cross the **Sydney Harbour Bridge** on foot for free views, or climb it with BridgeClimb if heights do not worry you.

The **ferries** are the best value sightseeing in the city. The ride to **Manly** passes the Opera House and the harbour heads, and lands you at a relaxed beach suburb with a lovely walk to **Shelly Beach**. Shorter ferries reach **Taronga Zoo**, Cockatoo Island and Watsons Bay.

The Rocks and the city centre

**The Rocks** is the oldest part of colonial Sydney, with sandstone lanes, historic pubs and a weekend market. Nearby, the **Museum of Contemporary Art** sits on the quay, and the **Art Gallery of New South Wales** includes a striking new building and an important collection of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art. **Barangaroo** and **Darling Harbour** are good for waterfront dining and the **Australian National Maritime Museum**.

Beaches and coastal walks

**Bondi** is the most famous beach, but the real treat is the **Bondi to Coogee coastal walk**, around six kilometres of clifftop paths, rock pools and smaller beaches like **Tamarama**, **Bronte** and **Clovelly**. Ocean pools let you swim in the sea without the waves. On the northern side, **Manly** and the Northern Beaches up to **Palm Beach** are quieter and very pretty. Always swim between the red and yellow flags.

Neighbourhoods and food

**Surry Hills** and **Darlinghurst** have the cafés and restaurants, **Newtown** has a creative, alternative feel with Thai food and bookshops, **Chinatown** and **Haymarket** are packed with Asian eateries, and **Paddington** has terraced streets and boutiques. For Vietnamese food, head west to **Cabramatta**; for Lebanese, **Lakemba** or **Parramatta**. A long brunch is a Sydney ritual.

Where to stay

First-timers do well near **Circular Quay**, **The Rocks** or the CBD for easy ferries and sights. **Surry Hills** suits food lovers, **Bondi** and **Manly** suit beach lovers who do not mind a longer trip into town, and **Darling Harbour** suits families.

Getting around

Trains, ferries, buses and light rail all accept tap-on payment with a contactless bank card, phone or Opal card, with daily and weekly fare caps. The airport train is fast but carries an extra station access fee, so compare it with a bus if you are on a tight budget.

Day trips

The **Blue Mountains** are around two hours by train: see the **Three Sisters** at Echo Point in Katoomba, walk to waterfalls and enjoy the cooler air. The **Hunter Valley** is the nearest major wine region, and the **Royal National Park** south of the city has coastal walks and whale watching in season.

Planning tips

Summer brings crowds and big New Year's Eve fireworks, so book early for late December. Spring and autumn are calm and mild. Wear sunscreen even on cloudy days, as the UV is strong.