Victoria

Melbourne: a first-timer's guide to Australia's culture capital

Melbourne is the city Australians love to argue about over coffee. It lacks Sydney's harbour, but makes up for it with hidden laneways, world class food, galleries, street art, grand Victorian architecture and an obsession with sport. It is easy to get around, friendly to first-timers and the gateway to some of the country's best road trips.

Melbourne (AU), Northbank -- 2019 -- 1422-7
Photo: .mw-parser-output .commons-creator-table{background-color:#f0f0ff;box-sizing:border-box;font-size:95%;text-align:start;c, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Food, coffee, galleries, street art, shopping and sport
Airport
Melbourne Airport (MEL) at Tullamarine, about thirty minutes from the city by SkyBus
Time needed
Three to four days, plus a day or two for the Great Ocean Road
Best season
October to April, with mild autumn days in March and April
Getting around
Trams, trains and buses on the myki card, plus the Free Tram Zone in the city
Good base for
The Great Ocean Road, Phillip Island, the Yarra Valley and the Mornington Peninsula

Why go

Melbourne is a city to experience rather than a list of sights to tick off. Its pleasures are walking the laneways, finding a tiny café in an alley, catching a game at the MCG, browsing markets and eating very well. It also has four seasons in one day, so pack a light jacket even in summer.

The city centre

Start at **Federation Square** opposite **Flinders Street Station**, then cross into **Hosier Lane** and **AC/DC Lane** for street art. Wander **Degraves Street** and **Centre Place** for coffee, and the **Block Arcade** and **Royal Arcade** for Victorian grandeur. The **National Gallery of Victoria** on St Kilda Road is free for its permanent collection, and **ACMI** at Fed Square covers film, television and games.

**Queen Victoria Market** is a historic open-air market for produce, deli food and souvenirs, with a summer night market. Walk along the **Yarra River** to **Southbank** and through the **Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria**, then up to the **Shrine of Remembrance** for city views.

Neighbourhoods

**Fitzroy** and **Collingwood** are the heart of creative Melbourne, with Brunswick Street and Smith Street bars, vintage shops and murals. **Carlton** on Lygon Street is the old Italian quarter. **St Kilda** has a beach, a pier with little penguins at dusk, the Luna Park gate and cake shops on Acland Street. **Richmond** is known for Vietnamese food on Victoria Street, and **Chinatown** on Little Bourke Street is one of the oldest in the Western world. **South Yarra** and **Prahran** suit shoppers.

Food and coffee

Melbourne takes coffee seriously: order a flat white or long black and you will rarely be disappointed. The city is also strong on Greek, Italian, Vietnamese, Chinese, Malaysian and modern Australian food. Book ahead for popular restaurants on weekends, or join the queue at the many walk-in spots.

Sport

The **Melbourne Cricket Ground** hosts cricket in summer and Australian Rules football from March to September; a game is a great cultural experience even if you do not follow the rules. Melbourne also hosts the **Australian Open** tennis in January, the **Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix** in autumn and the **Melbourne Cup** horse race on the first Tuesday of November.

Where to stay

The **CBD** is the most convenient base, inside the Free Tram Zone. **Southbank** has river views, **Fitzroy** suits food and nightlife lovers, and **St Kilda** suits those who want the beach.

Getting around

Trams are free within the city centre Free Tram Zone. Beyond it, you need a myki card or, as the system rolls out, contactless payment; check the Public Transport Victoria website for the latest. SkyBus links the airport and Southern Cross Station.

Day trips

The **Great Ocean Road** is one of the world's great coastal drives, best done over two days to reach the **Twelve Apostles** without rushing; tours run daily. **Phillip Island** has the nightly **Penguin Parade**. The **Yarra Valley** offers wineries and the Healesville Sanctuary for native wildlife, and the **Dandenong Ranges** have the Puffing Billy steam railway.

Planning tips

The weather changes quickly, so dress in layers. Summer can bring very hot days and bushfire risk in the countryside, so check warnings before driving out of the city.

Questions about Melbourne

Is Melbourne or Sydney better for a first visit?

Sydney has the iconic views and beaches; Melbourne has the food, culture and laneways. If you can, see both: they are about an hour and a half apart by plane.

Are the trams in Melbourne free?

Only inside the Free Tram Zone in the city centre. Outside it you need to pay, and the Public Transport Victoria site explains current payment options.

Can I see the Great Ocean Road in a day?

Yes, on a long day tour, but two days with a night in Apollo Bay or Port Campbell is far more relaxed and lets you see the Twelve Apostles at sunset.

Where can I see penguins near Melbourne?

The Penguin Parade on Phillip Island is the famous option. Little penguins also come ashore at dusk at the St Kilda breakwater, where volunteers ask visitors not to use flash.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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