Barbuda: frigate birds, pink sand and a quieter island

Why go

Barbuda is where you go for quiet. There are no big resorts crowding the shore, few cars and long stretches of beach where you may not see anyone else. Nature is the draw: birds, reefs, caves and sea. It is not polished, and that is the point.

Recovering from Irma

In September 2017, Hurricane Irma struck Barbuda directly and damaged or destroyed most buildings. The whole population was evacuated to Antigua for a time. Many residents have since returned, homes and services have been rebuilt, and visitors are welcome, but facilities remain limited and some places listed online may be closed. Plan carefully and confirm bookings directly.

The frigate bird sanctuary

The **Codrington Lagoon National Park** protects a huge breeding colony of magnificent frigatebirds. Local guides take small boats across the lagoon to the mangroves where thousands of birds roost. In the breeding season, roughly from autumn to spring, males inflate bright red throat pouches to attract females, and later you can see fluffy white chicks. Boats keep a respectful distance and only local guides are permitted.

The beaches

**Pink Sand Beach**, part of a long stretch on the west coast often called Eleven Mile Beach, has soft sand tinted pink by tiny crushed shells. The colour is strongest at the water's edge and in certain light. In the south, **Princess Diana Beach** near Coco Point is long, calm and pale pink too. Bring everything you need: shade, water and food, as there are few facilities.

Caves and history

On the northeast coast, the **Two Foot Bay** area has limestone caves, including one where a ladder climbs to a natural skylight, and Amerindian petroglyphs nearby. Inland, **Darby Sink Cave** is a deep sinkhole full of ferns and palms. On the south coast, the **Martello Tower** at River is an early nineteenth century fort, and **Highland House** holds the ruins of the Codrington family estate, who leased Barbuda for nearly two centuries.

Land and community

Barbudans have long held land in common, a tradition rooted in their history after emancipation. Development and land rights are an ongoing and sensitive public debate, so travel respectfully, use local guides and support local businesses.

Getting there

The **Barbuda Express** ferry runs from St. John's, taking about an hour and a half, and offers day tours that include the lagoon, beaches and lunch. The crossing can be rough in the trade winds, so take seasickness tablets if you need them. Small planes also fly from V. C. Bird International Airport to Barbuda in around twenty minutes. Check schedules in advance, as they are limited and can change.

Practical tips

Bring cash, water, sunscreen, insect repellent and a hat, as shade and shops are scarce outside Codrington. Arrange guides, taxis and boats through your ferry tour or accommodation before you arrive. Mobile coverage is patchy in places, so download maps and save booking details offline.

Where to stay

Accommodation is small scale: guesthouses in Codrington, simple beach cottages and a few higher end properties in the south. Confirm by direct contact before you travel. Use our places to visit list and the free trip planner to decide between a day trip and a stay.