Salto and the hot springs of northern Uruguay

The hot springs

The thermal water around Salto comes from the Guaraní Aquifer, one of the largest underground water reserves in the world. It rises warm and mineral rich, and several resorts have been built around it.

• **Termas del Daymán** is the closest, a short drive or bus ride south of the city. It has a cluster of public pools, a water park, small hotels and family run guesthouses. It is lively and popular with Uruguayan and Argentine families.
• **Termas de Arapey**, about an hour and a half north, is quieter and more rural, with pools surrounded by fields and a larger hotel. It suits people who want to relax for a few days.
• **Termas de Salto Grande** and others offer smaller, hotel based options.

The pools are at their most pleasant in the cooler months, from April to October, when the warm water contrasts with crisp air. In summer they are still open but busy with families, especially on weekends and school holidays. Bring a swimsuit, flip flops, a towel and a robe or warm layer for walking between pools.

The city

Salto's centre is easy to walk. Stroll along **Calle Uruguay**, the main street, to the riverside **costanera**, where people fish, drink mate and watch the sunset over Argentina. The **Teatro Larrañaga** is a handsome nineteenth century theatre, and the Museo del Hombre y la Tecnología, in an old market building, covers local history and industry.

Salto Grande dam

North of the city, the **Salto Grande** hydroelectric dam spans the river and is shared with Argentina. Guided visits are sometimes offered, and the lake behind it is used for fishing and water sports. The dam also carries a road crossing to Concordia in Argentina.

Citrus, wine and estancias

The north is citrus country, with orange and mandarin groves along the roads, and Salto has a small wine tradition dating back to Basque and Italian settlers. Estancias in the surrounding countryside take guests for horse riding, asados and a taste of gaucho life; book directly and check what is included.

Food

Salto's food is hearty and simple: parrilla grills, homemade pasta, river fish such as surubí and boga when available, and plenty of dulce de leche. In the thermal towns, most people eat at their hotel or at the small parrillas around the pools.

Practical tips

Bring cash for small guesthouses and parrillas near the pools, and pack swimwear, flip flops and a warm layer. Weekends are busiest at Daymán.

Getting there

Buses from Montevideo's Tres Cruces terminal take around six to seven hours to Salto. Local buses and taxis run out to Daymán, and buses run less often to Arapey, so check times at the terminal. Salto also connects by road over the dam to Concordia in Argentina, which makes it a stop on longer overland trips.

Combining with the rest of Uruguay

Salto is far from the beach destinations, so it fits best on a longer trip, or as a winter escape when the coast is quiet. Paysandú, further south on the river, has its own hot springs at Guaviyú and Almirón and makes a natural stop on the way back to Montevideo.