Edinburgh: a first-timer's guide to Scotland's capital

Why go

Edinburgh feels like a story book. Narrow closes drop away from the **Royal Mile**, church spires and chimney pots stack up against the sky, and an extinct volcano, **Arthur's Seat**, rises right beside the city. It is Scotland's capital, home to its parliament and national museums, and a lively student city with excellent pubs, food and music.

The main sights

**Edinburgh Castle** sits on Castle Rock and holds the Honours of Scotland, the Stone of Destiny and the One O'Clock Gun. Book a timed ticket ahead. Walk down the **Royal Mile** past St Giles' Cathedral to the **Palace of Holyroodhouse**, the King's official Scottish residence, and the modern **Scottish Parliament**. The **National Museum of Scotland** is free and superb, with a rooftop terrace view. The **Scottish National Gallery** on the Mound is also free.

Climb **Arthur's Seat** for the best view in the city, a steady walk of an hour or so from Holyrood. **Calton Hill**, with its monuments, is a short climb for sunset. Below ground, **The Real Mary King's Close** takes you into the buried streets of the old town.

Neighbourhoods

The **Old Town** is the medieval spine, busy and atmospheric. The **New Town** is a grid of elegant Georgian streets with shops on George Street and Princes Street. **Stockbridge** has a village feel, a Sunday market and the **Water of Leith** path to **Dean Village**. **Leith**, the old port, is now known for seafood restaurants and the Royal Yacht Britannia. **Bruntsfield** and **Marchmont** are leafy student areas with good cafés.

Festivals

In August, the **Edinburgh Festival Fringe**, the **Edinburgh International Festival**, the **Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo** and the book festival run together. Rooms sell out and rates climb steeply, so book months ahead or stay outside the city. **Hogmanay**, the New Year celebration, brings a street party and fireworks over the castle.

Food and drink

Try haggis, neeps and tatties in a traditional pub, Cullen skink soup, fresh langoustines in Leith and a full Scottish breakfast. Whisky bars line the Old Town, and the **Scotch Whisky Experience** near the castle is an easy introduction.

Getting around

The centre is walkable, though hilly. Lothian buses and the tram cover the rest, and the tram runs from the airport to Princes Street and on to Leith. Trains from **Waverley** station reach London in around four and a half hours and Glasgow in under an hour.

Where to stay

The **Old Town** puts you in the middle of the sights, the **New Town** is calmer and elegant, **Stockbridge** feels local, and **Leith** suits food lovers on a tighter budget. Outside August, Edinburgh is far easier to book.

Day trips

**Stirling Castle** and the Wallace Monument, **St Andrews**, the **Forth Bridges** at South Queensferry and **Rosslyn Chapel** are easy by train or bus. Many coach tours run to Loch Ness and Glencoe in a day, though the Scottish Highlands deserve longer.

Tips for a calm visit

Edinburgh's weather is breezy and changeable, so pack a warm layer and a rain jacket even in summer. The castle and Royal Mile are busiest from late morning, so start early and save the quieter New Town and Stockbridge for the afternoon. During August, book shows, restaurants and rooms well ahead, and expect crowded pavements on the Royal Mile. Many of the best Fringe shows are small and cheap, and free street performers fill the Mound and the Royal Mile. In winter, days are short and dark by mid afternoon, but the Christmas market, cosy pubs and Hogmanay make it a lovely season. Find more pubs, cafés and walks on our places to visit page.