The Ukrainian Carpathians: Yaremche, Hoverla and Hutsul valleys

Why visit the Carpathians

The mountains are gentle, green and wooded, rising to just over two thousand metres. In summer you can hike to high meadows called polonyny, swim in rivers and eat cheese straight from the shepherds' huts. In winter, Bukovel and Dragobrat offer the country's best skiing. All year, Hutsul culture, with its embroidery, woodcarving, trembita horns and painted Easter eggs, gives the region a character all its own.

Before you plan

The Carpathians are among the furthest parts of Ukraine from the front line, but the whole country is covered by Western travel advice against all or all but essential travel. Air alerts still sound here. Read your government's advice and check that your insurance covers hiking and mountain rescue. Some border areas with Romania and Hungary have restricted access; follow local rules and carry your passport.

Yaremche

**Yaremche** is the classic base, a small town on the Prut River. The **Probiy Waterfall** thunders right in the centre, beside a busy souvenir market of woollen blankets, carved wood, dried mushrooms and smoked cheese. Short trails lead to the **Dovbush Rocks** and up **Makovytsia** for a view. The **Carpathian National Nature Park**, Ukraine's oldest, has its offices and visitor information here.

Hoverla and the high mountains

**Mount Hoverla**, Ukraine's highest peak, is a popular summer day hike from the Zaroslyak trailhead near **Vorokhta**. The route is steep but well trodden; start early and turn back if the weather changes. The longer Chornohora ridge walk continues past old border markers and an abandoned observatory on Pip Ivan, for experienced hikers only.

Bukovel and skiing

**Bukovel** is Ukraine's biggest ski resort, with many lifts, modern hotels and summer activities like biking and lake swimming. It is busy and polished. **Dragobrat**, the highest ski village, is rougher and more adventurous.

Hutsul culture

Visit **Kosiv** for its weekly craft market, **Kolomyia** for the giant egg shaped **Pysanka Museum**, and **Verkhovyna** for the heart of Hutsul tradition. Look for wooden churches, many of them listed by UNESCO in the Carpathian region. Try banosh, a cornmeal porridge with brynza cheese, mushroom soup in a bread bowl and fresh trout.

Further afield

**Synevyr Lake** in Zakarpattia, the region on the far side of the ridge, is a dark mountain lake known as the eye of the sea. **Manyava Skete** is a remote seventeenth century monastery near a pretty waterfall.

Getting around

Trains and buses run from **Lviv** and **Ivano-Frankivsk** to Yaremche and Vorokhta, and the old railway through the mountains is beautiful. Marshrutka minibuses link villages. Roads can be narrow and slow, so allow plenty of time.

Staying

Most stays are family run wooden chalets, often with a sauna or a hot tub. Book early for July, August and the ski season, when Ukrainian families fill the valleys.

What to pack

Even in summer, nights in the mountains are cool and storms build fast in the afternoon. Bring layers, a waterproof jacket, proper hiking boots and a power bank, as phone signal and electricity can both be patchy. Carry cash for markets, guesthouses and shepherds' huts, where cards are rarely accepted. Download offline maps before you set out, because trail markings are good on the main routes but thin on quieter ones.

Plan your mountain days with the free trip planner, or start in Lviv.