Kamianets-Podilskyi: a castle on a canyon

Why visit

Few European towns have a setting this dramatic. The **Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle**, with its round and square towers, guards the only land approach to the old town, while the canyon does the rest. Inside the old town, Catholic, Orthodox and Armenian churches stand within a few streets of each other, reflecting a long history as a meeting place of peoples.

Before you plan

Kamianets-Podilskyi is in Khmelnytskyi region in the west of the country, far from the front line, but Ukraine as a whole is covered by Western travel warnings, and air alerts sound here too. Read your government's advice and check your insurance before you go.

The castle

The **castle** dates from the fourteenth century and was rebuilt many times. Walk the walls and towers, explore the courtyards and small museums, and look down into the canyon from the ramparts. Summer festivals of knights and reenactors have been held here, when conditions allow. For the best photograph, walk up the road beyond the castle in the evening, when the stone glows in the sunset.

The old town

Cross the **Turkish Bridge** into the old town. The **Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul** has a minaret built when the town was Ottoman, later topped with a statue of the Virgin Mary, a striking symbol of the town's history. The **Town Hall** on Polish Market Square is one of the oldest in Ukraine. Wander to the **Armenian Market Square**, the **Dominican Monastery** and the old defensive gates by the river.

The canyon

The **Smotrych Canyon** is up to forty metres deep. Paths lead down from the old town to the river, where you can walk beneath the cliffs and look up at the walls. It is especially lovely in autumn, when the trees turn gold. Wear proper shoes, as some paths are steep and uneven.

Day trips

**Khotyn Fortress**, about half an hour south, is a dramatic medieval fortress on the banks of the Dniester, scene of a famous battle against the Ottomans in 1621. **Bakota**, a valley flooded when a reservoir was built, has a small cave monastery carved into the cliff and wide views over the water. In summer, rafting trips run on the **Dniester Canyon**.

Food and stays

Restaurants cluster around the old town and Zamkova Street, serving Podillia dishes, varenyky and grilled meat. Choose a guesthouse in the old town for atmosphere, or a larger hotel in the new town for comfort and parking. Book ahead for summer weekends, when Ukrainian visitors come in large numbers.

Getting there

Kamianets-Podilskyi has a railway station with trains to Kyiv, Lviv and other cities, though the new town station is a short taxi ride from the castle. Buses run to Chernivtsi, about two hours south, making the two an easy pair.

When to go

Late spring and early autumn are the best seasons: the canyon is green or golden, the paths are dry and the old town is calm on weekdays. Summer is warm and busy with Ukrainian families, and the castle festivals draw crowds. Winter is cold and quiet, with short opening hours at the museums, but the castle under snow is a beautiful sight. Whatever the season, check opening hours locally, as wartime staffing can change them at short notice.

Plan your route with the free trip planner, and pair it with Chernivtsi.