Abaco: a first-timer's guide to the sailing islands

Why visit Abaco

Abaco is made for being on the water. The Sea of Abaco is sheltered and shallow, with short hops between cays, so it is perfect for renting a small boat, sailing a chartered yacht or simply catching the ferry from one village to another. Bonefishing, snorkelling and empty beaches fill the days.

A note on Hurricane Dorian

In September 2019 Hurricane Dorian, one of the strongest Atlantic storms on record, devastated much of Abaco, especially Marsh Harbour and the area known as The Mudd, with many lives lost. Rebuilding has made huge progress, many businesses have reopened and tourism is important to recovery. Some places named in older guides no longer exist, so check before you plan around a specific restaurant or hotel.

Marsh Harbour

Marsh Harbour is the main town on Great Abaco and the arrival point by air. It has supermarkets, banks, boat rental companies and the ferry dock for the cays. Most visitors pass through rather than stay, but it is a useful base for stocking up.

Hope Town and Elbow Cay

Hope Town on Elbow Cay is the postcard of Abaco, with narrow lanes too small for cars, pastel cottages and the red and white striped Elbow Reef Lighthouse, one of the last kerosene burning, hand wound lighthouses in the world. Climb it for views across the harbour. The Wyannie Malone Historical Museum tells the Loyalist story. Ocean side beaches have good snorkelling, and the south end of the cay at Tahiti Beach becomes a sandbar at low tide.

Man-O-War Cay and Guana Cay

Man-O-War Cay is a boatbuilding community with a long tradition of wooden boats and canvas bags, and a quiet, conservative feel. Great Guana Cay is livelier, known for its long beach and the Nipper's Beach Bar Sunday parties, with good snorkelling on the reef just offshore.

Green Turtle Cay

Green Turtle Cay, reached by ferry from Treasure Cay, has the pretty village of New Plymouth, the Albert Lowe Museum, a Loyalist memorial sculpture garden and laid back bars. It is one of the most charming small settlements in the country.

Treasure Cay

Treasure Cay beach is a long crescent of fine white sand and shallow, gentle water, often listed among the best beaches in the world. It is ideal for families and swimmers.

Wildlife

South Abaco has the Abaco National Park, home to the endangered Abaco parrot, which nests in limestone holes in the ground. Wild horses once roamed here but have sadly died out. Fowl Cay and Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park protect reefs for snorkelling.

Getting around

Albury's Ferry connects Marsh Harbour with Elbow Cay, Man-O-War Cay and Guana Cay, and the Green Turtle Cay ferry leaves from near Treasure Cay. Many visitors rent a small boat for the week, which is the most freeing way to explore; you should be confident handling a boat and reading charts, as shallow banks are common. Golf carts are used on the cays.

Where to stay

Hope Town and Elbow Cay have cottages, small inns and villas. Green Turtle Cay has charming small resorts. Treasure Cay suits families wanting beach apartments. Book directly and confirm what has reopened.