Nassau and Paradise Island: a first-timer's guide

Why visit Nassau and Paradise Island

Nassau is the easiest place in The Bahamas to arrive, with direct flights from North America, the UK and Europe. It has the widest choice of hotels, restaurants and activities, and it is the hub for flights and ferries to the Out Islands. Even if your heart is set on a quiet cay, a few days here give you history, culture and food you will not find on the smaller islands.

Downtown Nassau

Bay Street is the main shopping street, running along the harbour from the cruise port at Prince George Wharf. Parliament Square, with its pink colonial buildings and a statue of Queen Victoria, sits just behind. Climb the Queen's Staircase, sixty six steps cut into limestone by enslaved people in the late eighteenth century, up to Fort Fincastle and the Water Tower for harbour views. Nearby are Fort Charlotte, the largest fort on the island, the Pompey Museum of Slavery and Emancipation at Vendue House, the National Art Gallery of The Bahamas in Villa Doyle, and the John Watling's Distillery in an old Georgian house on Delancy Street.

The rebuilt Straw Market sells baskets, carvings and souvenirs; look for genuinely Bahamian straw work rather than imported trinkets. Downtown is busiest when several cruise ships are in, so visit early or late if you want quieter streets.

Arawak Cay and the Fish Fry

West of downtown, Arawak Cay is home to the Fish Fry, a row of brightly painted shacks serving conch salad, fried snapper, cracked conch, johnnycake and Sky Juice, a mix of gin, coconut water and condensed milk. Twin Brothers and Goldie's are long running favourites. It is where Nassau eats, especially on Friday and Saturday nights.

Paradise Island

Paradise Island is dominated by the Atlantis resort, with its aquarium, waterpark and casino, but it also has quieter hotels, Cabbage Beach, one of the longest beaches near Nassau, and the sheltered Paradise Beach. The Versailles Gardens and the reconstructed French cloister are a peaceful surprise. Water taxis run from downtown, which is more fun than a taxi over the bridge.

Cable Beach and the west

Cable Beach, a few kilometres west of downtown, is a long strip with Baha Mar and other resorts. Further west, Love Beach is good for snorkelling, Clifton Heritage National Park has Lucayan, Loyalist and slavery era history plus an underwater sculpture garden, and Jaws Beach is a local favourite. Primeval Forest National Park shows the island's sinkholes and native plants.

Junkanoo

If you can, be in Nassau for Junkanoo, the street parade of goatskin drums, cowbells, brass and giant crepe paper costumes on Boxing Day and New Year's Day, starting in the small hours. Junkanoo Summer Festival brings smaller events in the warmer months, and the Educulture Junkanoo Museum explains the tradition year round.

Safety in Nassau

Most visitors have no problems, but Nassau has higher crime than the Out Islands. Government advice warns about armed robbery and theft, and about the Over the Hill neighbourhoods south of Shirley Street, especially at night. Stay alert downtown after dark, use licensed taxis, keep valuables out of sight on beaches and avoid unlicensed jet ski operators, which the US government specifically warns against.

Where to stay

Paradise Island and Cable Beach suit resort lovers. Downtown has historic hotels and guesthouses close to museums and restaurants. Western New Providence, around Love Beach and Old Fort Bay, is quieter, with villas and smaller stays. See our places to visit list for specific ideas.