Košice: Slovakia's lively second city

Why go

Košice gets fewer visitors than Bratislava, which is part of its charm. The old town is one of the best preserved in Slovakia, and the main street, **Hlavná ulica**, is almost entirely pedestrian, with parks, fountains and terraces down its centre. It is a real city where people live and meet, not a stage set, and it makes an excellent base for exploring eastern Slovakia.

The essentials

The **St Elisabeth Cathedral** dominates Hlavná. Climb its north tower for views over the rooftops, and look inside for the crypt where the Hungarian freedom fighter Francis II Rákóczi is buried. Beside it stand the **Urban Tower** and the **St Michael's Chapel**. Further along, the **State Theatre** faces the **singing fountain**, which plays music and lights up on summer evenings. Walk the lane called **Hrnčiarska**, the street of crafts, with small workshops in old houses. The **Lower Gate underground museum** shows the medieval foundations beneath the street.

Culture and modern Košice

The Capital of Culture year left lasting venues. **Kasárne Kulturpark**, in old military barracks, hosts exhibitions, concerts and workshops. The **East Slovak Museum** and the **Slovak Technical Museum** are good rainy day options, and the converted swimming pool **Kunsthalle** shows contemporary art. In summer, open air events fill the main street, and the city marathon, one of the oldest in Europe, runs every October.

Food and drink

Eastern Slovak cooking is hearty: try halušky, potato pancakes, sauerkraut soup and pirohy, filled dumplings that show the region's links with Ukraine and Poland. Košice has a lively café culture and several craft breweries. The Tokaj wine region, shared with Hungary, lies just to the southeast, and its sweet and dry whites appear on many local menus.

Day trips

Košice is the gateway to the east. **Spiš Castle** and **Levoča** are about an hour away. The **Slovak Karst** caves, including Domica and Gombasecká, are UNESCO listed and reachable in a day. The **Herľany geyser** erupts roughly every few days, and the wooden churches of the northeast are a longer but rewarding journey. Rural buses are slower, so plan connections carefully.

Where to stay

Stay in the old town or on its edge for easy walking. Hotels and apartments along and just off Hlavná put you close to everything, while the streets near the railway station are convenient for early trains.

Getting there and around

Košice has an international airport with flights to several European hubs, and trains run to Poprad, Bratislava and Budapest, plus some services towards Prague. The old town is walkable, and trams link it with the station and outer districts. Validate tickets on boarding.

How long to stay

Two days is ideal for the old town and one day trip. Stay longer to explore the caves, wooden churches and wine villages of the east.

Tips for visiting

The old town is busiest on summer evenings when terraces fill and the fountain plays, so stroll Hlavná at dusk for the best atmosphere. Many museums close on Mondays, so plan around that. Košice is also a good place to try eastern Slovak specialities you will not find in Bratislava, and a relaxed base if you want to slow down after the mountains.