Nouabalé-Ndoki: one of the wildest forests on Earth

Why visit Nouabalé-Ndoki

Few places on Earth feel as untouched. The park protects thousands of square kilometres of forest, swamp and rivers, home to western lowland gorillas, chimpanzees, forest elephants, bongo antelope and a huge variety of birds and primates. It is managed in partnership between the government and the Wildlife Conservation Society, whose research has made it one of the best studied forests in Central Africa. Visitor numbers are tiny, which is part of its magic.

Mbeli Bai

The park's most famous sight is **Mbeli Bai**, a large swampy clearing where gorillas, elephants, sitatunga and buffalo come to feed. A raised viewing platform at the edge of the forest lets you watch for hours without disturbing the animals. Researchers have observed gorilla families here for decades, and a day on the platform is one of Africa's great wildlife experiences.

Gorilla habituation

In the **Djéké Triangle** and around research sites, gorilla groups have been habituated for study and, in some cases, for small numbers of visitors. Access is limited and arrangements change, so ask the park well ahead about what is currently possible. The **Goualougo Triangle**, famous for chimpanzee research, is generally closed to tourism.

The Sangha River

The park base is at **Bomassa** on the Sangha River, which forms the border with the Central African Republic and Cameroon nearby. Travel by boat on the Sangha is part of the experience, with walls of forest on both banks. The river town of **Ouesso** is the regional hub, with an airstrip, a market and basic hotels.

Getting there

This is a serious expedition. Most visitors fly from Brazzaville to Ouesso, then continue by road or river to Bomassa, a journey that can take most of a day. Some travellers combine the park with Dzanga-Sangha in the Central African Republic, but check border and travel advice carefully first, as the advice for areas near that border is strict. Plan everything in advance with the park management.

When to go

It can rain in any month. The drier periods, broadly December to February and a shorter spell mid-year, usually make access and walking easier and draw more animals to the bais.

What to expect

Facilities are simple compared with Odzala's camps. Expect basic but comfortable rooms, shared meals, insects, heat and humidity. Bring long sleeves, insect repellent, a head torch, binoculars and medicine for malaria prevention. Patience is rewarded: some of the best sightings come after hours of quiet watching.

A typical itinerary

A common plan is a flight to Ouesso, a night in town, then road or river travel to Bomassa. From there, spend two or three days at Mbeli Bai and in the surrounding forest, with guided walks and, where possible, a visit to a habituated gorilla group. Return the same way, allowing a spare day for weather or flight changes. Travelling light helps on small boats and planes. Respect the research teams and local Ba'Aka and Bantu communities whose knowledge of the forest makes visits possible, and always ask before taking photos of people. Your visit helps fund protection of a forest that matters to the whole planet. Use the free trip planner to fit the north into a longer route.