San Bernardino and Lake Ypacaraí: Paraguay's lakeside escape

Why go

The lakeside circuit is the easiest way to see rural Paraguay without a long journey. You get tree-lined streets, old summer villas, a sandy lakeshore, craft villages and hills with views, all within a short ride of the capital. In summer, San Bernardino turns into the country's liveliest holiday town, with beach clubs and late night parties; the rest of the year it is calm and green.

San Bernardino

The town has a small grid of streets running down to the lake, a municipal beach and a waterfront promenade. The historic **Hotel del Lago**, built in the late nineteenth century, is the town's landmark and is said to have hosted famous guests over the years. Many visitors simply stroll, eat at lakeside restaurants and watch the sunset across the water.

Lake Ypacaraí itself has had problems with water quality over the years, including algae blooms in hot weather. Swimming is sometimes advised against, so look for local notices or ask at your hotel before going in. Boat trips and the views are enjoyable either way.

Areguá

On the opposite, western shore, **Areguá** is one of Paraguay's prettiest towns: cobbled streets, colonial houses, a hilltop church with lake views and dozens of workshops selling hand-made ceramics, from garden pots to figurines. The nearby **Cerro Koi** has unusual hexagonal sandstone formations and a short walking trail. Areguá is known for strawberries, and its strawberry festival, usually held around July and August, fills the streets with stalls selling fruit, jams and cakes.

Areguá also has a small arts scene, with the cultural centre **El Cántaro** displaying regional art and crafts.

Caacupé

**Caacupé** is Paraguay's spiritual capital. Its large basilica is dedicated to the Virgin of Caacupé, the country's patron. Every year around 8 December, huge crowds walk or cycle from Asunción and across the country to the basilica, many making the journey overnight. It is a moving sight, but the town is extremely busy, accommodation fills up and roads are congested. On other days the town is quiet and easy to visit.

The Cordillera circuit

The hills around the lake hold more small towns worth a stop. **Altos** has a German past and views over the lake. **Piribebuy** is known for its history in the War of the Triple Alliance and its woven ponchos. **Tobatí** is known for ceramics and the rock formations nearby. Many travellers hire a local guide or join a day tour from Asunción to link several towns in a day.

Getting there and around

Buses to San Bernardino and Areguá leave regularly from Asunción, and the journey is cheap but slow in traffic. Ride apps can work for short hops between nearby towns, though availability is patchy outside the capital. Plan to travel back to Asunción in daylight, and allow extra time on Sunday evenings when weekend traffic heads back to the city.

Where to stay

San Bernardino has the widest choice, from simple guesthouses to lakeside hotels and resorts. Areguá has a handful of small guesthouses. In summer and over Christmas and New Year, book ahead.