Nablus: a first-timer's guide to the old city of the north

Why visit Nablus

Nablus has been a trading city since Roman times, when it was founded as Flavia Neapolis, and before that it stood beside biblical Shechem. Its old city is not a museum: it is where people shop, pray, work and eat, and visitors who walk its lanes are welcomed with tea, questions and samples of sweets. Few tourists come, so the experience feels personal.

The old city

Start at the square by An-Nasr Mosque and the Ottoman clock tower, then wander. Khan al-Tujjar, the old merchants' market, is a long covered street of clothes and household goods. Spice and coffee shops roast beans with cardamom, carpenters and copper workers keep their doors open, and old soap factories still stack olive oil soap in tall towers to dry. Many buildings carry posters of young men killed in recent years, a reminder of the city's recent history.

Kunafa and food

Nablus is the home of kunafa nabulsieh, a hot tray of soft white cheese under semolina or shredded pastry, soaked in syrup and topped with pistachio. Al-Aqsa Sweets and Habibah are the classic bakeries, and locals eat it standing at the counter. Breakfast means falafel and hummus from the old city stalls, and lunch might be musakhan or maqluba in a family restaurant.

Hammams

Nablus is one of the few places in Palestine where Ottoman bathhouses still operate. Hammam al-Shifa offers steam rooms, a hot stone platform, scrubbing and tea under a domed ceiling. Check whether it is a men's or women's session on the day you visit.

Mount Gerizim and the Samaritans

On Mount Gerizim, above the city, lives one of the smallest religious communities in the world: the Samaritans, who trace their faith to ancient Israel and hold Gerizim holy. The Samaritan Museum explains their history and scripture, and their Passover sacrifice on the mountain is an extraordinary sight for those who time a visit with it. The mountain is under Israeli military control, so check access first.

Jacob's Well and Tell Balata

In the eastern district of Balata, a Greek Orthodox church stands over Jacob's Well, where the Gospel of John places the meeting of Jesus and the Samaritan woman. Close by, Tell Balata is the site of ancient Shechem, with Bronze Age walls and gates.

Sebastia

A short drive northwest, the village of Sebastia sits beside the ruins of the ancient city of Samaria: a Roman theatre, a colonnaded street and temple remains on a hilltop covered in olive groves. The village itself is built around a crusader cathedral where tradition places the tomb of John the Baptist. Simple guesthouses let you stay the night. Settler activity has affected the archaeological site at times, so ask locally before going.

Where to stay

Al-Yasmeen Hotel, at the edge of the old city, is the classic base, and there are a few more hotels in the newer parts of town. Choices are limited, so book ahead.

Getting there and around

Shared taxis run from Ramallah to Nablus, taking around an hour when checkpoints are open, but the main checkpoints around Nablus, including Huwwara, have often caused long delays or closures. Within the old city everything is on foot.

Staying safe

Nablus and nearby Jenin and their refugee camps have seen frequent Israeli military raids and armed clashes since 2022, and some governments advise against all but essential travel to parts of the northern West Bank. Read your government's current advice before planning, go only when conditions are calm, travel in daylight, and consider a local guide. For a gentler first trip, start with Bethlehem and Ramallah.