North Phyongan Province

Mount Myohyang: temples, valleys and the Friendship Exhibition

Mount Myohyang, the mountain of mysterious fragrance, is a range of wooded peaks and clear streams north of Pyongyang. It combines the most peaceful sights in North Korea, an old Buddhist temple and mountain walks, with one of its most extraordinary: a vast hall holding gifts given to the country's leaders by visitors from around the world.

View from the terrace of the International Friendship Exhibition 3
Photo: Christophe95, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Mountain scenery, a Buddhist temple and a unique museum
From Pyongyang
About two and a half hours by road
Time needed
A long day or one night
Best season
May to June and late September to October for autumn colour
Stay
Hyangsan Hotel
Getting there
Tour bus on the Pyongyang to Hyangsan highway

The International Friendship Exhibition

Built into the hillside, the **International Friendship Exhibition** holds tens of thousands of gifts presented to Kim Il Sung, Kim Jong Il and Kim Jong Un. You enter through huge bronze doors, put covers on your shoes and walk through hall after hall of objects arranged by country: a bulletproof car from Stalin, a basketball signed by an American star, crocodile skin briefcases, vases, swords and model trains. Photography is not allowed inside, and the visit ends with a bow before a lifelike wax figure. It is solemn, strange and unforgettable.

Pohyon Temple

A short walk away, **Pohyon Temple** dates from the eleventh century and is one of the most important Buddhist sites in North Korea. Its wooden halls, stone pagodas and bell stand in a quiet valley under tall trees. A monk is sometimes present, and some halls hold old scriptures and Buddhist images. It is one of the few places on a tour that feels truly calm.

Mountain walks

Tours often include a walk up the **Manpok Valley** or the **Sangwon Valley**, following streams past pools and waterfalls on stone paths and steps. Walks range from an easy hour to a longer climb towards the higher peaks. Wear proper shoes, and bring water and a light jacket, as it is cooler than Pyongyang.

Ryongmun Big Cave

Some itineraries visit **Ryongmun Big Cave**, a limestone cave system near the mountain with illuminated chambers and formations given patriotic names. It is chilly inside all year.

Where to stay

The **Hyangsan Hotel** is a large pyramid shaped hotel at the foot of the mountains, renovated with a pool, sauna and restaurant. Staying overnight lets you walk in the morning before the day groups arrive. Otherwise the trip is a long day from Pyongyang.

On the way

Tours sometimes stop in the small town of Hyangsan or at a farm or school on the drive. The countryside here gives a clear picture of rural North Korea: rice fields, ox carts, bicycles and villages.

Tips

Autumn colour in October is the most beautiful time to come, with spring a close second. Leave plenty of time at the Friendship Exhibition, which is larger than it looks. For a coastal contrast, see Wonsan, or read about the capital in Pyongyang.

Combining with other sights

Most tours pair Mount Myohyang with stops on the drive back to Pyongyang, such as a cooperative farm, a school or the Ryongmun cave. If you stay overnight, ask whether there is time for a longer walk to a waterfall or hermitage in the morning, when the valleys are quietest.

What to wear and bring

Bring smart clothes for the Friendship Exhibition, where shorts and casual wear are not appropriate, plus walking shoes and a rain jacket for the trails. Mosquito repellent helps in summer.

Why the mountain matters

Mount Myohyang has been one of the famous mountains of Korea for centuries, praised in poems for its scented trees and waterfalls. Buddhist monks built hermitages throughout its valleys, and during the Japanese invasions of the 1590s, the monk Sosan led warrior monks from Pohyon Temple against the invaders. A small museum at the temple recalls this history.

Questions about Mount Myohyang

Can I take photos at the International Friendship Exhibition?

Not inside. You can photograph the exterior and the surrounding mountains when guides say it is fine.

Is the hiking at Mount Myohyang hard?

Most tour walks are moderate, on stone paths and steps for one to three hours. Tell your operator in advance if you want a longer walk or need an easy one.

Is Pohyon Temple still a working temple?

It is maintained as a heritage site, sometimes with a resident monk. Religious activity in North Korea is tightly controlled, so treat it as a historic site and behave respectfully.

Do tours stay overnight at Mount Myohyang?

Some do, at the Hyangsan Hotel. Many shorter tours visit as a long day trip from Pyongyang.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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