Oaxaca: food, markets and Zapotec valleys

The city

The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and feels made for wandering. The pedestrian **Andador Turístico** (Calle Macedonio Alcalá) runs up to the **Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán**, a church whose interior is covered in gilded baroque carving. Next door, the **Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca** holds the treasures of Tomb 7 at Monte Albán, and the **Jardín Etnobotánico** shows off the state's cacti and agaves on guided tours. The **Zócalo** and the Alameda beside the cathedral are the place to sit, people watch and hear marimba bands in the evening.

Neighbourhoods like **Jalatlaco** and **Xochimilco** are quieter, with street art and small guesthouses, and both are an easy walk from the centre.

The food

Oaxaca is called the land of the seven moles, and trying them is a main reason to come: rich, dark mole negro, red coloradito, yellow amarillo and more. Look out for **tlayudas**, large crisp tortillas grilled over charcoal with beans, quesillo and meat; **memelas** at breakfast; **chapulines**, toasted grasshoppers with lime and chilli; and **tejate**, a cold maize and cacao drink sold in markets. In the **Mercado 20 de Noviembre**, the smoky meat hall lets you choose thin cuts of beef and chorizo to be grilled in front of you. Hot chocolate, ground with sugar and cinnamon in mills like **Mayordomo**, comes with sweet bread for dipping.

Mezcal

Most of Mexico's mezcal comes from Oaxaca. Tasting bars in the city explain the differences between agaves such as espadín and wild tobexiche or tepeztate, and a day trip to Santiago Matatlán or the valleys lets you see the roasting pits and stone mills in family palenques. Sip slowly; it is strong.

The valleys

Three valleys meet at the city, and day trips are easy with a tour or a hired driver from a reputable agency. **Monte Albán**, the great Zapotec hilltop city, is just outside town. Heading east along the Tlacolula road, stop at the giant **Árbol del Tule** cypress, the weaving village of **Teotitlán del Valle**, the stone mosaics of **Mitla** and the mineral pools of **Hierve el Agua**, whose cliffs look like frozen waterfalls. South of the city, **San Bartolo Coyotepec** makes black pottery and **San Martín Tilcajete** carves painted wooden alebrijes. Valley villages hold weekly markets, the best known being Sunday in **Tlacolula**.

Festivals

Oaxaca's calendar is full. The **Guelaguetza** in July brings dancers from every region of the state to the hill above the city. **Día de Muertos**, at the end of October and the start of November, fills cemeteries with candles and marigolds and the streets with parades called comparsas. December brings the Noche de Rábanos, when carved radishes go on display in the Zócalo. Book rooms months ahead for these dates.

The coast

Oaxaca state also has a Pacific coast, with surf at Puerto Escondido, the relaxed bays of Huatulco and the hippie beach of Mazunte. The road over the mountains is long and winding, so most people fly.

Practical tips

The centre is walkable and generally relaxed for visitors, but use normal care at night. Days are warm and nights cool, so bring a layer. Protests and road blockades occasionally affect travel, so check local news before long drives. See our places to visit for markets, mezcal bars and stays, and use the trip planner to fit Oaxaca into a wider route.