Mérida and the Yucatán: Maya ruins, cenotes and colonial towns

Mérida

The city centre spreads out from the **Plaza Grande**, lined by the cathedral, the Palacio de Gobierno with its powerful murals of Yucatán's history, and the **Casa de Montejo**, a conquistador's house with a carved façade. North of the centre, the **Paseo de Montejo** is a long boulevard of mansions built when the region grew rich on henequen, the sisal fibre once used to make the world's rope. The **Gran Museo del Mundo Maya** is a modern museum that makes a good introduction before you visit the ruins.

Mérida is known for its free cultural events: music and dance most evenings in different plazas, a re-enacted Maya ball game in the Plaza Grande, and on Sundays the centre closes to cars for a market and dancing. Days are hot, so locals stay out late and rest in the afternoon.

The great Maya sites

**Chichén Itzá**, about two hours east, is the most famous: El Castillo pyramid, the great ball court and the sacred cenote. Arrive at opening time to beat the tour buses and the heat. **Uxmal**, about an hour south, is many people's favourite: elegant Puuc style buildings, the rounded Pyramid of the Magician, and far fewer crowds. Combine it with the smaller sites of the **Ruta Puuc**, such as Kabah and Labná. **Ek Balam**, north of Valladolid, has a stunning stucco jaguar doorway, and **Dzibilchaltún**, near Mérida, has a cenote you can swim in.

Cenotes

The Yucatán has no rivers on the surface; water runs underground and appears in cenotes, sinkholes that the Maya held sacred. Some are open pools, others are caves with shafts of light falling into blue water. Near Mérida, the **Cuzamá** cenotes are reached by horse drawn carts on old rail tracks, and **Homún** has dozens of family run cenotes. Near Valladolid, **Ik Kil**, **Suytun** and **Xkeken** are popular. Shower before swimming, skip sunscreen in the water, and wear a life jacket if you are not a strong swimmer.

Colonial towns

**Valladolid** is a relaxed, colourful town halfway to Cancún, with a cenote in the town centre and the best base for an early visit to Chichén Itzá. **Izamal**, the yellow city, has a huge Franciscan convent and pyramids standing among the houses. On the Gulf coast, **Celestún** and **Río Lagartos** offer boat trips to see flamingos, and near Río Lagartos the pink lagoons of **Las Coloradas** are a striking stop.

Haciendas

Dozens of old henequen haciendas have been restored as hotels, restaurants or museums. Staying a night or two in one is a peaceful treat, and visiting one like **Sotuta de Peón** shows how henequen was processed.

Yucatecan food

The food here is distinct from the rest of Mexico, with Maya and Caribbean roots. Try **cochinita pibil**, slow cooked pork with achiote and sour orange, **sopa de lima**, **panuchos** and **salbutes**, **poc chuc** and **papadzules**. Habanero salsa is the local fire, so ask before adding it. Evenings call for **marquesitas**, crisp rolled crêpes filled with Edam cheese.

Practical tips

Yucatán state is regularly described as one of the calmer parts of Mexico, but take normal care. ADO buses connect Mérida, Valladolid and Cancún comfortably. Heat is the main challenge: plan sightseeing for early morning and late afternoon, wear a hat, and drink plenty of water. For places to eat and stay see our places to visit, and pair this region with the Riviera Maya using the trip planner.