Sabah state, Borneo

Sabah: a first-timer's guide to Malaysian Borneo

Sabah, on the northern tip of Borneo, is Malaysia at its wildest: Mount Kinabalu rising above the clouds, orangutans in the rainforest, pygmy elephants on the Kinabatangan River and coral reefs around tropical islands. Its capital, Kota Kinabalu, is a relaxed seaside city and the easy base for most trips.

St. John's Peak Mount Kinabalu 3
Photo: kallerna, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Wildlife, hiking, diving and nature
Airport
Kota Kinabalu International Airport (BKI)
Time needed
Five to ten days
Best season
March to October
Language
Malay, English and many indigenous languages
Getting around
Domestic flights, ride apps, tour transfers and buses

Why go

Sabah offers some of the most accessible wildlife experiences in Asia. In a single week you can watch orangutans swing in to a feeding platform, spot proboscis monkeys and hornbills from a river boat, walk through a cloud forest full of pitcher plants and orchids and snorkel over coral reefs. The state is also home to more than thirty indigenous groups, including the Kadazan Dusun, Bajau and Murut, whose culture and harvest festival are a highlight.

Kota Kinabalu

Kota Kinabalu, often shortened to KK, sits on the coast facing the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. It is a friendly, low key city with a waterfront of seafood stalls, a busy Sunday market on Gaya Street, the striking City Mosque on its lagoon and the Sabah State Museum. Sunsets at Tanjung Aru beach are famous. Short boat rides take you to Manukan, Sapi and Mamutik islands for snorkelling and beaches.

Mount Kinabalu and Kinabalu Park

Kinabalu Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site around two hours from the city, protects Malaysia's highest mountain and an astonishing range of plants. The summit climb usually takes two days, with a night in a mountain hut and a pre dawn start to reach the peak at sunrise. Climbing permits and licensed guides are compulsory and numbers are limited, so book well ahead through authorised operators. If you do not climb, the garden trails near park headquarters, the hot springs and canopy walk at Poring and the cool farmland of Kundasang make a lovely visit.

Sandakan and the east

A short flight takes you to Sandakan on the east coast. At Sepilok, the Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre cares for orphaned orangutans and has viewing platforms at feeding times, while the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre next door protects the world's smallest bear. From there, lodges along the Kinabatangan River run boat safaris at dawn and dusk to look for proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, hornbills, orangutans and sometimes pygmy elephants.

Diving and the east coast

Sipadan, off the southeast coast near Semporna, is one of the world's best known dive sites, and daily permits are limited. Read your government's advice before planning this region: several governments advise caution or against travel to islands and coastal areas of eastern Sabah because of the threat of kidnapping, and a curfew at sea can apply. This advice can affect travel insurance.

Food

Sabah food has its own character: tuaran mee noodles, hinava, a raw fish dish dressed with lime and chilli, Sabah tea and excellent seafood. Kota Kinabalu's night market and seafood restaurants let you choose live fish and shellfish to be cooked to order.

Getting there and around

Fly from Kuala Lumpur, Penang or other cities to Kota Kinabalu. Sabah has its own immigration controls even for travellers already in Malaysia, so carry your passport on domestic flights. Distances are large and roads winding, so domestic flights between Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan and Tawau save time. Tour operators handle transfers to lodges and parks.

When to go

Sabah has rain all year, but March to October is usually drier. The Kaamatan harvest festival takes place in May.

Practical tips

Bring leech socks for jungle walks, a warm layer for the mountain and good rain gear. Use our places to visit list and the free trip planner to shape a Borneo route.

Questions about Sabah

Do I need a permit to climb Mount Kinabalu?

Yes. Climbing permits, a licensed guide and accommodation on the mountain must be booked in advance through authorised operators, and numbers are limited.

Where can I see orangutans in Sabah?

At the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre near Sandakan, and in the wild along the Kinabatangan River.

Is Sabah safe to visit?

Kota Kinabalu and Kinabalu Park are generally safe. Some islands and coastal areas of eastern Sabah carry government warnings, so check your government's travel advice before booking.

Do I need my passport to fly from Kuala Lumpur to Sabah?

Yes. Sabah runs its own immigration checks, so carry your passport on domestic flights to and from Borneo.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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