Klaipėda: Lithuania's port city and gateway to the coast

Why go

Klaipėda was founded by the Teutonic Knights in the thirteenth century and for most of its history belonged to Prussia and then Germany under the name Memel. It only became part of Lithuania in 1923. That history shows in its **old town**, with half timbered warehouses, narrow lanes and a riverside harbour that look more like northern Germany than Vilnius. Most travellers stop here on the way to the Curonian Spit, but the city deserves a day of its own.

The old town

Start at **Theatre Square**, with the statue of **Ännchen von Tharau** in front of the theatre. She is the heroine of a popular folk song by the poet Simon Dach, born in the city. Walk through the lanes to the half timbered warehouses on Aukštoji and Daržų streets, many now cafés, galleries and craft shops. The old **castle site** by the harbour has excavated walls and a small museum.

The Danė river runs through the centre, and the sailing ship **Meridianas**, moored by the bridge, is a city symbol. Small sculptures dot the streets: look for the Black Ghost rising from the water, the chimney sweep and a mouse that grants wishes.

The Sea Museum and Smiltynė

A short ferry ride from the **Old Ferry Terminal** takes you across the narrow strait to **Smiltynė**, the northern tip of the Curonian Spit. Here the **Lithuanian Sea Museum**, inside a nineteenth century fortress, has an aquarium, seals, penguins and maritime exhibitions. It is a great family day. Smiltynė also has forest trails, a beach and an open air display of old fishing boats.

Museums and parks

The **Clock and Watch Museum** shows timepieces from sundials to atomic clocks in a pretty villa. **Martynas Mažvydas Sculpture Park**, an old cemetery, now holds more than a hundred modern sculptures under the trees. The **Lithuania Minor History Museum** explains the culture of the region once called Prussian Lithuania.

Beaches

The nearest beaches are **Melnragė** and **Giruliai** north of the port, reachable by city bus or bike. Both have fine sand and forest behind them. Further north, **Palanga** is the country's main resort, with a long pier, a busy main street and the **Amber Museum** in a palace park.

Events

The **Sea Festival** in late July is the biggest summer party on the coast, with tall ships, concerts, markets and fireworks. Book well ahead if visiting then.

Food and drink

Try smoked fish, fish soup and local beer in the old town's warehouse bars. Restaurants range from simple pubs to good grills and seafood places, and coffee shops are easy to find in the centre.

Getting there

Trains and buses from Vilnius take around four hours, and from Kaunas around three. Palanga International Airport is the closest airport. Ferries from Kiel in Germany and Karlshamn in Sweden arrive at the port. For the Curonian Spit, the passenger ferry from the Old Ferry Terminal is quick, and buses run to Nida from Smiltynė.

Where to stay

The **old town** and the streets just across the river are best for walking. Beach suburbs such as Giruliai suit summer stays with children.

Tips

The coast is windy, so bring a warm layer even in July. Baltic water stays cool, and the swimming season is short, roughly late June to August. Outside summer, Klaipėda is quiet and some seasonal cafés close, but the old town, museums and ferries keep running. If you are heading on to the Curonian Spit, plan ferry and bus times the day before, especially on weekends.