Liepāja: Latvia's city of music and wind

Why go

Liepāja feels different from Riga: rougher at the edges, closer to the sea and proud of its music. Many of Latvia's best known bands came from here, and the city celebrates them with a walk of fame and plenty of live venues. Add an excellent beach, wooden architecture and the fascinating ruins of Karosta, and it is well worth the journey west.

The beach and seaside park

The **beach** stretches for kilometres along the open sea, wide and sandy with fine dunes. Behind it, **Jūrmalas parks**, the seaside park, is one of the largest parks in Latvia, with old trees, paths and playgrounds. The water here is the open Baltic, cooler and wavier than the Gulf of Riga, so swim where lifeguards are present.

Karosta

North of the centre, **Karosta** was built as a naval base for the Russian Empire and later used by the Soviet military, closed even to most Latvians. Today it is a strange and atmospheric district of abandoned barracks, Soviet apartment blocks and huge red brick buildings. The golden domed **St Nicholas Orthodox Naval Cathedral** rises above it.

On the shore, the **Northern Forts** are concrete fortifications that are slowly breaking apart and sinking into the sea, especially dramatic at sunset. Take care on the broken concrete and keep away from the edges. **Karosta Prison**, a former military jail, offers guided tours that recreate its harsh regime, and it is not for young children.

Music and culture

The **Great Amber** concert hall, Lielais Dzintars, glows like a piece of amber at night and is home to the Liepāja Symphony Orchestra. **Holy Trinity Cathedral** holds one of the largest mechanical organs in the world, and you can climb its tower. On **Rožu laukums**, the **Latvian Musicians' Walk of Fame** honours rock and pop stars, and **Fontaine Palace** is a legendary rock club in an old wooden building with live music late into the night.

The **Liepāja Museum**, in an old villa, covers local history and amber. The **Pētertirgus** market is a good place for smoked fish and seasonal produce.

Events

In summer, the beach hosts **Summer Sound**, one of Latvia's biggest music festivals, and the city has regular open air concerts. Book accommodation early on festival weekends.

Nature nearby

South of the city, **Pape Nature Park** protects coastal meadows, lakes and dunes where wild horses and aurochs graze, and it is a major stopover for migrating birds. To the north, the surfing village of **Pāvilosta** has wide empty beaches and a relaxed summer mood.

Food and drink

The old port area and the centre have cafés, fish restaurants and bars. Try Kurzeme dishes such as sklandrausis, smoked flounder and local beer.

Where to stay

The **centre** and the **old port promenade** are the most convenient, close to the concert hall, restaurants and the beach. Karosta has a few unusual options, including a night in the old prison for the brave.

Getting there and around

Buses and trains run from Riga in around three hours. **Liepāja International Airport** has a small number of seasonal flights, so check current routes. The city has a tram line and buses, and the centre and beach are walkable.