Vientiane: a first-timer's guide to the riverside capital

Why go

Vientiane does not try to impress, and that is its charm. You can walk most of the centre, stop for a croissant and Lao coffee, visit a temple older than most of the city around it, and still be on the riverfront for sunset. It is also the best place to understand modern Laos: its revolution, its wartime legacy and its fast growing links with its neighbours.

Temples and monuments

Pha That Luang, the great golden stupa on the edge of the centre, is the national symbol and the most sacred monument in Laos. Wat Si Saket, built in the early nineteenth century, survived the Siamese sack of the city and its cloister holds thousands of small Buddha images. Across the road, Haw Phra Kaew, a former royal temple, is now a museum of Buddhist art. Patuxai, the victory monument at the top of Lane Xang Avenue, looks a little like the Arc de Triomphe; climb it for the view down the boulevard. Wat Si Muang, where locals bring offerings to the city pillar, shows everyday faith at work.

Understanding the war

Laos is, per person, the most heavily bombed country in history, and the COPE Visitor Centre explains why with care. Its exhibits on unexploded ordnance and on the prosthetics made for survivors are moving and unforgettable, and entry is free with donations welcome. The Kaysone Phomvihane Museum, out of the centre, gives the official story of the revolution and its leader.

Buddha Park and day trips

About an hour south east of town by road, Buddha Park, or Xieng Khuan, is a riverside garden of more than two hundred concrete statues of Buddhist and Hindu figures, built by a mystic in the 1950s. Climb inside the giant pumpkin for the view. The Phou Khao Khouay protected area, a longer trip, offers forest walks and waterfalls.

Food and drink

Vientiane eats well. Try laap, a minced meat or fish salad with herbs and roasted rice, tam mak hoong, the fiery green papaya salad, grilled fish stuffed with lemongrass, and khao piak sen, a thick rice noodle soup that makes the perfect breakfast. Khao jee pâté, a baguette filled with pâté and herbs, is a legacy of the French years. The riverfront fills each evening with grill stalls and a long red tented night market, while Chao Anouvong Park hosts open air aerobics and families on the grass. For a drink, rooftop bars look out over the Mekong, and Beerlao is everywhere.

Shopping

Talat Sao, the morning market, is the place for silk, textiles and silver. Carol Cassidy Lao Textiles shows some of the finest weaving in the region, and small shops in the old centre sell handmade crafts from social enterprises.

Where to stay

The area between the riverfront and Setthathirath Road, around Nam Phou fountain, is the best base: walkable, safe and full of restaurants. Quieter boutique hotels sit in the lanes behind, and larger international hotels with pools are a short ride away.

Getting there and around

Wattay International Airport is about ten minutes from the centre, with flights from Bangkok, Hanoi, Singapore, Kunming, Seoul and other regional hubs. By land, the Thai Laos Friendship Bridge connects with Nong Khai, and a train from Thailand now runs to Khamsavath station in Vientiane. The Laos to China railway leaves from Vientiane station north of the city, linking Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang. In town, ride apps such as LOCA work well, and tuk tuks are everywhere; agree the fare before you go.

Plan your days

One full day covers the main temples, COPE and the riverfront. A second day lets you add Buddha Park, a market and a relaxed food crawl. See the other Laos destinations or use the free trip planner to build the rest of your route.