Song-Kol: a first-timer's guide to Kyrgyzstan's yurt lake

Why visit Song-Kol

Song-Kol is the best place in Kyrgyzstan to experience the nomadic summer pasture tradition, the jailoo. There are no permanent villages, no shops and almost no electricity: just the lake, the grass, the yurts and the animals. Days are about horse riding, walking and watching the light change, and nights are cold, quiet and spectacular.

When to go

The yurt camps generally operate from about mid June to early September. Outside that window the lake is cold, the roads may be snowbound and the herders have left. Even in midsummer, temperatures can fall close to freezing at night, and snow is possible.

Yurt camps

Camps range from simple family yurts to more organised tourist camps with separate dining yurts and basic toilets. Expect felt walls, piles of quilts, a stove, simple shared meals of bread, soup and plov, and outdoor long drop toilets. Most camps are set up along the south and west shores. Book through a reputable agency, the Community Based Tourism network in Kochkor or your guesthouse, rather than turning up unannounced, especially in July and August.

Horse treks

The classic way to arrive is on horseback over two or three days from Kochkor or the Kyzart pass area, staying in herders' yurts on the way. It is one of the most memorable rides in Central Asia and suits riders with some experience. Shorter rides around the lake can be arranged at the camps.

The gateway: Kochkor

**Kochkor** is a small market town and the usual base. It is known for felt making, especially shyrdak rugs, and has workshops where you can watch women at work and buy direct. Guesthouses here help arrange drivers, horses and yurt stays.

Getting there

From Bishkek it is about four hours to Kochkor. From there, drivers take two to three hours up winding gravel roads over the Kalmak-Ashuu pass or via Sary-Bulak. There is no public transport to the lake. Some travellers continue south to Naryn or Tash Rabat, a stone caravanserai on the old Silk Road.

What to pack

Bring warm layers, a hat and gloves, a head torch, sunscreen and sunglasses for the strong high altitude sun, and wet wipes. A power bank is useful, as charging is limited. Cash in som is essential.

Altitude and health

At around three thousand metres, some visitors feel headaches or breathlessness. Spend a night lower down in Kochkor first, drink plenty of water and go easy on the first evening.

What a day looks like

Mornings start with tea, bread, jam and kaymak cream in the dining yurt. Many visitors then ride or walk along the shore or up a nearby ridge, watching herders move their animals and children ride bareback across the grass. Afternoons are for resting, helping with milking or simply sitting outside. After dinner, the temperature drops quickly and the stars come out in their thousands. If you are lucky, your hosts may play the komuz or sing.

Respecting the herders

You are a guest in a working summer home. Ask before photographing people, keep gates and animals undisturbed, take all your rubbish away with you and accept food and tea graciously. Small gifts such as sweets or fruit from Kochkor are appreciated.