Issyk-Kul: a first-timer's guide to Kyrgyzstan's great lake

Why visit Issyk-Kul

The lake is the centrepiece of most Kyrgyzstan trips. Its water is clear and slightly salty, its shores are lined with sandy beaches, and the mountains behind are among the finest in the Tian Shan. The two shores feel very different: the north is busy and built up with resorts, while the south is rural, quiet and full of red rock canyons.

The north shore

**Cholpon-Ata** is the main resort town. Its open air petroglyph field holds hundreds of carved stones from the Bronze Age to the early centuries AD, set against a backdrop of mountains, and the **Rukh Ordo** cultural centre on the shore has chapels to several faiths and a small museum. In July and August the beaches and sanatoriums fill with visitors from Kazakhstan and Russia, and evenings are lively. **Bosteri** next door has a big Ferris wheel and a party atmosphere. **Tamchy**, to the west, is a calmer village with guesthouses and a long beach.

The south shore

The south shore is the better choice for travellers seeking quiet and nature. **Skazka**, the fairy tale canyon, is a maze of eroded red and orange rock formations a short walk from the lake. Near **Bokonbaevo** you can meet eagle hunters who still train golden eagles, watch a demonstration and stay in yurt camps on the shore. **Kaji-Say** and **Tamga** have small guesthouses, and **Barskoon** has waterfalls and the road up to the high plateau. Further east, the **Jeti-Oguz** red cliffs lie close to Karakol.

Water and beaches

The swimming season is short. The water is pleasant from July to early September, and cold the rest of the year. Beaches range from sandy resort strips to pebbly coves. There are few lifeguards, so take care, especially with children.

Culture and festivals

The **World Nomad Games** have been held at Cholpon-Ata and the nearby Kyrchyn gorge, bringing horseback games such as kok boru, wrestling and eagle hunting to the lake. Summer also brings local festivals of traditional crafts and horse games, especially around Bokonbaevo. Ask your guesthouse what is on.

Where to stay

On the north shore, choose between resort hotels and sanatoriums in Cholpon-Ata or village guesthouses in Tamchy. On the south shore, family guesthouses and lakeside yurt camps are the norm. Book ahead for July and August, when demand peaks.

Getting around

The drive from Bishkek to Cholpon-Ata takes around four hours, and to the south shore a little less. Marshrutkas and shared taxis run from Bishkek's western bus station to both shores. A road loops right around the lake, so you can travel one shore and return by the other. Issyk-Kul International Airport near Tamchy has limited seasonal flights.

Practical tips

The sun is strong at this altitude, about one thousand six hundred metres, so bring sunscreen and a hat. Evenings are cool even in summer. Cash is essential outside Cholpon-Ata, and ATMs are few on the south shore.

Suggested itinerary

Spend a night in Cholpon-Ata to see the petroglyphs and swim, then continue east to Karakol for treks. Return along the south shore, stopping at Jeti-Oguz, Barskoon, Skazka canyon and Bokonbaevo, and finish with a night in a lakeside yurt camp before heading to Kochkor or back to Bishkek. Four or five days lets you enjoy both shores without rushing, and you can easily add more beach time in high summer.