Capital city

Nairobi: a first-timer's guide to Kenya's capital

Almost every trip to Kenya starts and ends in Nairobi, and for many first-timers it is the place they are most nervous about. It needn't be. Nairobi is a green, fast-moving capital with a national park on its doorstep, good food, friendly people and neighbourhoods that each have their own character. With the right base and a driver who knows the city, it is an easy, rewarding place to spend a few days.

Upper Hill Building Nairobi Kenya
Photo: Antony Trivet, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Arrival days, wildlife close to the city, food, culture and family visits
Arrive at
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
Time needed
Two to three days on its own, or a night either side of a safari
Base yourself
Westlands, Kilimani, Lavington, Karen or Gigiri

Arriving at JKIA

International flights land at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA), on the south-east side of the city. After immigration, baggage and customs, you walk out into a busy arrivals hall. When you travel with us, a driver from our sister company, Urban Escape Luxury Cars, is waiting there with your name, having tracked your flight. The Nairobi Expressway runs from near the airport towards Westlands, so on a good day the city is not far away. Their JKIA arrival guide walks through every step, from the aircraft door to the car.

When to go

Nairobi is a year-round city. It sits high, at roughly 1,700 metres (over 5,500 feet), so days are warm and mornings and evenings are cool. The long rains usually fall from around March to May and the short rains around October to December, but even then there is plenty of sunshine between showers. Pack a light jacket whenever you come.

Where to base yourself

Choose your neighbourhood by what you want from your stay, not by what looks closest on a map, because traffic decides how far anywhere really is.

  • Westlands: the busiest choice, with malls, restaurants and nightlife, and quick access to the Expressway.
  • Kilimani, Kileleshwa and Lavington: leafy residential areas full of serviced apartments, good for longer stays and families.
  • Karen and Langata: quieter, greener and close to the national park and the giraffe and elephant visits in the south-west of the city.
  • Gigiri: home to the United Nations offices and many embassies, calm and well kept.
  • Upper Hill: the business district, handy for meetings.

We match the area, and the type of stay, to your plans: boutique hotels, larger international hotels, serviced apartments or a family-friendly guest house. Ask us for our current, personally vetted picks.

What to do

  • Nairobi National Park: open grassland, rhinos, lions and giraffes with the city skyline behind them. An early-morning game drive is the classic first-day activity. Check current park fees with the Kenya Wildlife Service before you go.
  • Elephant and giraffe visits: the elephant orphanage run by the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and the Giraffe Centre in Langata are family favourites. Visiting arrangements change, so book ahead.
  • History and culture: the Nairobi National Museum and the Karen Blixen Museum tell very different parts of Kenya's story.
  • Markets and crafts: rotating Maasai markets and craft centres are the place for beadwork, carvings and fabrics. Friendly bargaining is expected.
  • Food: from nyama choma (grilled meat) and Swahili dishes to Ethiopian, Indian and modern restaurants. Tell us what you love and we will point you to our current favourites.

Getting around

Traffic is the one thing every visitor underestimates. A drive that takes 15 minutes on a Sunday can take an hour at rush hour. A private driver is the calmest way to get around, especially on your first days; our sister company provides chauffeur-driven cars and self-drive hire, and their guide to driving in Nairobi is useful if you plan to take the wheel yourself. Kenya drives on the left. Ride-hailing apps also work well in the city.

With children

Nairobi is very family-friendly. Base yourself somewhere with a garden or pool, keep sightseeing to the mornings, and let the animals do the work: the national park, the giraffes and the baby elephants usually win over even the most jet-lagged child.

Staying safe

Petty crime is common: phones snatched through open car windows, pickpockets in crowds and the odd scam. The US and UK also warn of violent crime in Nairobi, such as mugging, armed robbery and carjacking. Keep your phone out of sight in traffic with the window up, don't walk around after dark, use a driver or a ride-hailing app at night, and leave valuables in the hotel safe. Our safety guide explains what each government's advice says.

Ready to plan?

Tell us your dates and what you'd like to see, and we'll arrange your pickup, your stay and your days. Plan your trip with us, or read our guide to getting around Kenya.

Transport by our sister company, Urban Escape Luxury Cars.

Questions about Nairobi

Which area of Nairobi is best for a first-time visitor?

Westlands suits people who want restaurants and nightlife close by; Karen suits families and anyone who wants quiet and gardens; Kilimani and Lavington suit longer stays. Tell us your plans and we will suggest the right area.

How far is JKIA from the city?

The distance is short, but time depends on traffic. Using the Nairobi Expressway, Westlands is often 20 to 30 minutes away when traffic is light, and much longer at rush hour.

Is Nairobi safe for tourists?

Take care there. The US asks visitors to exercise increased caution in Kenya and says not to go to the Eastleigh and Kibera areas, and the US and UK both warn of violent crime in the city as well as petty theft. Keep your phone out of sight in traffic, avoid walking at night, use arranged transport after dark and keep valuables in your hotel safe.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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