Mangystau and Aktau: canyons, chalk and the Caspian

Why visit Mangystau

Millions of years ago this land lay under an ancient sea. As the water retreated it left layers of chalk and limestone that wind and rain have carved into fangs, towers and canyons. Few travellers make it this far, so even the most famous viewpoints can feel completely empty. Add the Caspian Sea, sacred sites and necropolises with carved stone tombs, and you have a region unlike anywhere else in the country.

Bozzhyra

The great white fangs of Bozzhyra are the region's signature view: two pointed cliffs rising from a wide valley floor, best seen from the plateau edge at sunrise or sunset. It is a long drive across the desert from Aktau on unpaved tracks, so most visitors camp nearby or visit on a two or three day tour.

Torysh, Sherkala and Kyzylkup

Torysh, the Valley of Balls, is a plain scattered with giant round stones formed naturally over millions of years. Sherkala is a lone flat topped mountain that looks like a crouching lion or a yurt, depending on your angle, with the ruins of a Silk Road town at its foot. Kyzylkup, known locally as the tiramisu hills, has red, white and pink striped slopes that glow late in the day.

The underground mosques

Beket Ata, the most revered, is set in a desert cliff and reached by a walk down a long staircase. Pilgrims often stay overnight in simple guest buildings nearby. Shakpak Ata, closer to the coast, is a cave mosque carved into a hillside with ancient graves around it. Dress modestly, remove shoes where asked and be respectful of those praying.

Aktau and the Caspian

Aktau itself is a Soviet planned city built in numbered microdistricts rather than named streets. Its long seafront promenade has a MiG fighter monument and wonderful sunsets over the Caspian. In summer locals swim from rocky coves and beaches near town. Fort Shevchenko, up the coast, has a museum to the Ukrainian poet Taras Shevchenko, who was exiled here. The Karagiye Depression, one of the lowest points on earth, is a short drive from the city.

How to plan it

The desert sights are remote, tracks are rough and mobile signal is poor or absent. Do not attempt them in an ordinary car or alone. Book a guided 4x4 tour with an experienced local operator, who will bring water, fuel and camping gear. Two to three days covers the main sights, plus a day in Aktau.

When to go

Spring and autumn are best. Summers are extremely hot in the desert and winters are cold and windy. Bring sun protection, a warm layer for desert nights and plenty of water.

Fit Mangystau into your route with the free trip planner, and see places to visit for Aktau stays and sights.