Akmola Region, northern Kazakhstan

Astana: a guide to Kazakhstan's futuristic capital

Astana became Kazakhstan's capital in 1997 and grew almost from scratch into one of the most striking cities in Asia. Golden towers, a glass pyramid and a giant transparent tent rise out of the open steppe along the Ishim river. It is clean, orderly and easy to explore, and two or three days are enough to see the main sights before heading south or into the mountains.

View from Bayterek tower
Photo: Ken and Nyetta, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Modern architecture, museums, opera and steppe day trips
Airport
Astana International (NQZ)
Time needed
Two to three days
Best season
June to early September
Language
Kazakh and Russian
Getting around
Ride hailing apps, buses and the new light rail where open

Why visit Astana

No other city looks quite like Astana. Many of its landmarks were designed by famous international architects, and the main axis of the Left Bank, Nurzhol Boulevard, links them in one long walk. The museums are excellent and the opera house is one of the grandest in the region. It is also the best place to understand how Kazakhstan sees its own future.

Nurzhol Boulevard and the Left Bank

Start at Baiterek, the white and gold tower that represents a tree of life holding a golden egg. Lifts carry you up to an observation deck with views along the boulevard. From there walk west past fountains and government buildings to Khan Shatyr, a giant tent of transparent panels with a shopping centre, rides and even an indoor beach. Walk east and you reach the presidential palace area and, across the river, the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation.

Museums and monuments

The National Museum on Independence Square is huge and modern, with the gold armour of the Golden Man, halls on nomad life and a strong section on independent Kazakhstan. Next door, the Kazakh Eli monument rises above the square, and the Hazret Sultan Mosque, one of the largest in Central Asia, welcomes respectful visitors outside prayer times. The Palace of Peace and Reconciliation, a pyramid by Norman Foster, has a light filled conference room at its tip. At the EXPO site, the Nur Alem sphere holds a museum of future energy.

A sobering day trip

The ALZHIR Memorial Museum, a short drive from the city, remembers the women imprisoned in a Soviet labour camp because their husbands had been labelled enemies of the people. It is moving and well presented, and gives context to the country's twentieth century history.

Nature near the capital

Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve, part of the UNESCO listed Saryarka steppe and lakes site, is home to breeding flamingos in summer and huge flocks of migrating birds in spring and autumn. Burabay National Park, a few hours north by road or train, has pine forests, clear lakes and granite rocks and is a favourite weekend escape.

Weather matters

Astana is one of the coldest capitals in the world. Winter temperatures often fall far below freezing and strong winds sweep the steppe, so if you visit between November and March bring serious cold weather clothing and plan indoor sights. Summers are warm and pleasant, with long evenings on the boulevard.

Food and stays

Restaurants cluster on the Left Bank and in the older Right Bank centre, serving Kazakh, Uzbek, Georgian and international food. Hotels range from luxury towers to good value business hotels, and most are within a short taxi ride of the main sights.

Use the free trip planner to fit Astana into your route, and see places to visit for restaurants and stays.

Questions about Astana

How many days should I spend in Astana?

Two days covers the main landmarks and museums. Add a day for Korgalzhyn or the ALZHIR memorial, or two for Burabay.

How do I get from Almaty to Astana?

Flights take under two hours and run many times a day. Trains are slower but comfortable, with fast daytime services and overnight sleepers.

Is Astana worth visiting in winter?

It can be, if you dress for extreme cold and enjoy indoor sights such as the museums, Khan Shatyr and the opera. Summer is much easier for first-timers.

What should I eat in Astana?

Try beshbarmak, the national dish of boiled horse or lamb over flat noodles, kazy horse sausage, baursak fried bread and shubat, fermented camel milk, if you are feeling brave. Teahouses serve plov and lagman for a filling, good value meal, and the Left Bank has plenty of international restaurants and cafés for something familiar after a long day of sightseeing in the cold or the summer sun.

Was Astana renamed?

Yes. The city was called Nur-Sultan from 2019 and returned to the name Astana in 2022, so you may still see the old name on some maps.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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