Tokyo: a first-timer's guide to Japan's capital

Why visit Tokyo

Tokyo rewards curiosity more than any checklist. Each neighbourhood feels like its own town: teenage fashion in Harajuku, salarymen's yakitori alleys in Shinjuku, temple incense in Asakusa, vintage shops in Shimokitazawa. It has more acclaimed restaurants than any city in the world, yet a bowl of ramen or a convenience store breakfast can be just as memorable. It is also a superb base for day trips to Hakone, Nikko, Kamakura and Mount Fuji.

Neighbourhoods to know

• **Shinjuku:** the busiest station on earth, skyscrapers, Golden Gai's tiny bars, Omoide Yokocho and Shinjuku Gyoen garden. A practical, lively base.
• **Shibuya and Harajuku:** the famous scramble crossing, Shibuya Sky, Takeshita Street and the forest of Meiji Jingu.
• **Asakusa and Ueno:** old Tokyo, with Senso-ji temple, the Tokyo National Museum, Ameyoko market and good value hotels.
• **Ginza and Tokyo Station:** department stores, galleries, the Imperial Palace gardens and the easiest Shinkansen access.
• **Yanaka and Shimokitazawa:** slower, village-like corners for wandering, cafés and vintage.

What to see and do

Start early at Senso-ji before the crowds, then cross to Ueno for the museums. Spend an afternoon between Meiji Jingu and Shibuya, and an evening in Shinjuku. teamLab Planets in Toyosu and the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka need tickets booked ahead. For a view, Shibuya Sky at sunset or the free observation floors of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building are both excellent. In spring, cherry blossom fills Ueno Park, Shinjuku Gyoen and the Meguro River.

Food

Eat at counters: sushi in Tsukiji's outer market, ramen in Shinjuku, tempura in Ginza, monjayaki in Tsukishima. Department store food halls, called depachika, are a treat for picnics. Convenience stores are genuinely good for breakfast and snacks. Many small restaurants use ticket machines, so have cash or an IC card ready.

Day trips from Tokyo

Nikko's ornate shrines and waterfalls, Kamakura's giant Buddha and seaside temples, Hakone's hot springs and Fuji views, and the Fuji Five Lakes around Kawaguchiko are all within two hours. Kawagoe, called Little Edo, has old clay-walled warehouses and sweet potato snacks. Yokohama, with its Chinatown and waterfront, is under half an hour away.

Getting around

Buy a Suica or PASMO IC card, or add one to your phone wallet, and tap through every train, metro and bus. Google Maps gives accurate routes including platform numbers. Avoid the morning rush, roughly eight to nine thirty, when trains are packed. Taxis are clean and safe but expensive; doors open automatically.

Where to stay

Shinjuku suits first-timers who want nightlife and connections, Ginza or Tokyo Station those catching early trains, and Asakusa or Ueno travellers wanting better value and a traditional feel. Rooms are small, so pack light or forward luggage between hotels with a delivery service.

Practical tips

Tokyo is very safe, but in Kabukicho and Roppongi beware of touts inviting you into bars; drink spiking and inflated bills are the main scam. Carry your passport, as hotels must check it. Plan your days with the free trip planner and pick restaurants from our places to visit.