Monteverde: the cloud forest, explained

Why go to Monteverde

Cloud forest is a rare kind of habitat, kept wet by constant mist rather than heavy rain, and Monteverde is one of the best places in the world to walk through it. It is home to the resplendent quetzal, hundreds of bird species, tree frogs, sloths and a dizzying number of orchids. It also has a fascinating story: a group of American Quakers settled here in the 1950s, started a dairy and cheese factory and helped protect the forest that now draws visitors from around the world.

The reserves

• **Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve** is the original and best known, with well marked trails and a hanging bridge. It is busy in the dry season, and entry numbers can be limited, so arrive early or book ahead.
• **Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve** is higher, wetter and quieter, and is run by the community for the local high school.
• **Curi Cancha Reserve** is smaller and excellent for birds, including quetzals in season.
• **Children's Eternal Rainforest** (Bosque Eterno de los Niños) is the country's largest private reserve, bought with donations from schoolchildren around the world, with trails at the Bajo del Tigre station.

Go with a guide for at least one walk. They carry telescopes and know where the quetzal, the three wattled bellbird and the sloths are hiding, and you will see many times more than on your own.

Bridges, ziplines and adventure

Monteverde is where Costa Rica's canopy tours began, and several companies now run long ziplines, some with a superman line where you fly face down above the forest, and a Tarzan swing. Hanging bridge parks such as **Selvatura** and **Sky Adventures** let you walk through the treetops at a gentle pace, which suits families and nervous travellers.

Night walks

The forest comes alive after dark. Guided night walks, run by several small reserves on the edge of Santa Elena, show tarantulas, stick insects, glass frogs, sleeping toucans and often sloths and kinkajous. Bring a torch and closed shoes.

Coffee, chocolate and cheese

The mountainsides around Monteverde grow coffee, and small farms run tours of their plantations, mills and roasting. Chocolate tours are popular too. The **Monteverde cheese factory**, started by the Quaker settlers, still sells cheese and ice cream.

Where to stay

**Santa Elena town** has hostels, guesthouses and mid-range hotels close to restaurants and bus stops. The road towards the preserve is lined with lodges set in the forest, quieter and better for wildlife, but you will need taxis to get around in the evening.

Weather

Monteverde is much cooler than the coasts, with chilly, windy nights from December to February. Expect mist, drizzle and sudden showers in any month. Warm layers, a rain jacket and shoes with grip make a big difference.

Getting there

The road up has been largely paved, but the last stretches can still be slow and winding. Shuttles and public buses run from San José, La Fortuna and the beaches. The jeep, boat and jeep route across Lake Arenal is the fastest link with Arenal and La Fortuna. Use the free trip planner to fit it in.