Vancouver: a first-timer's guide to Canada's Pacific city

Why go

Vancouver is for people who love the outdoors but want a city too. The mountains are visible from downtown, forest trails start at the edge of the suburbs, and the water is always close. It has a mild climate by Canadian standards, with dry summers and rainy winters.

The main sights

**Stanley Park** is a huge forested peninsula next to downtown. Walk or cycle the **seawall** around it, see the totem poles at Brockton Point, and visit the **Vancouver Aquarium**. **Granville Island** has a lively public market, artisan studios and small ferries that shuttle across False Creek. **Gastown** is the oldest quarter, with cobbled streets, a steam clock and good restaurants. The **Museum of Anthropology** at the University of British Columbia has an outstanding collection of First Nations art. **Capilano Suspension Bridge Park** and the free **Lynn Canyon** suspension bridge take you into rainforest over deep canyons. **Grouse Mountain** offers hiking, skiing and views from its gondola.

Beaches and outdoors

**English Bay**, **Kitsilano Beach** and **Spanish Banks** are favourite summer spots. Kayak in **Deep Cove** or False Creek, hike the steep **Grouse Grind**, or take the scenic **Sea to Sky Highway** to Squamish and Whistler. Whale watching tours leave from the city and from Vancouver Island.

Neighbourhoods

**Downtown** and **Coal Harbour** are central and modern. The **West End** is leafy and close to the park. **Kitsilano** is relaxed and beachy. **Main Street** and **Commercial Drive** are independent and creative. **Chinatown** is one of the largest in North America, and the city of **Richmond**, near the airport, is famous for authentic Chinese food and a summer night market.

Food

Vancouver is one of the best sushi cities outside Japan, and the dim sum is excellent. Try Pacific salmon, spot prawns in season, the **JapaDog** street hot dog and the **Nanaimo bar**, a layered no-bake dessert from nearby Vancouver Island. Craft breweries cluster around Main Street and East Vancouver.

Day trips and beyond

**Whistler**, about two hours north, is a major ski resort in winter and a hiking and mountain biking hub in summer. **Victoria**, the provincial capital on Vancouver Island, is reached by BC Ferries or a short flight, and is known for its harbour, gardens and the Butchart Gardens. Further on, **Tofino** has wild surf beaches and old-growth rainforest.

Where to stay

**Downtown** and **Coal Harbour** are best for first-timers. The **West End** suits travellers who want to be near Stanley Park and the beaches. **Yaletown** is stylish and close to the Canada Line. Summer and cruise season are busy, so book well ahead.

Getting around

The **Canada Line** SkyTrain runs from the airport to downtown. The SkyTrain, buses and the **SeaBus** to North Vancouver all accept tap payment with a card. Walking and cycling are pleasant for most central areas.

Safety

Vancouver is generally safe, but the **Downtown Eastside**, around East Hastings Street near Gastown and Chinatown, has visible drug use and homelessness. Stay alert there, especially at night, and avoid leaving anything visible in parked cars.

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