Banff and the Canadian Rockies: a first-timer's guide

Why go

This is the Canada of postcards: milky blue lakes under glaciers, elk grazing by the road, and peaks that glow pink at sunset. It is also very accessible, with good roads, a lively mountain town and hikes for every fitness level.

Banff town

The town of **Banff** sits inside the park, surrounded by mountains. Ride the **Banff Gondola** up Sulphur Mountain for a boardwalk along the summit, soak in the **Banff Upper Hot Springs**, and see the grand **Fairmont Banff Springs** hotel. **Johnston Canyon**, a short drive away, has catwalks bolted to the canyon walls leading to waterfalls, and frozen falls in winter.

The famous lakes

**Lake Louise** is the classic: emerald water, a glacier at the far end and the Fairmont Château on the shore. Hike up to the **Lake Agnes Tea House** for a classic mountain break. **Moraine Lake**, in the Valley of the Ten Peaks, is perhaps the most photographed view in Canada. Private vehicles are no longer allowed on the Moraine Lake road, so you must use the **Parks Canada shuttle**, Roam Transit or a licensed tour, and parking at Lake Louise fills very early. Book shuttle seats in advance on the Parks Canada reservation site. Nearby in **Yoho National Park**, **Emerald Lake** and **Takakkaw Falls** are well worth the short trip.

The Icefields Parkway

The **Icefields Parkway** runs for about two hundred and thirty kilometres from Lake Louise to Jasper and is one of the world's great drives. Stop at **Bow Lake**, **Peyto Lake**'s wolf-shaped viewpoint, and the **Columbia Icefield**, where tours take you onto the Athabasca Glacier. There is almost no phone signal and very few services, so fuel up and carry food and water.

Jasper

**Jasper** is bigger, wilder and quieter than Banff. Highlights include **Maligne Canyon**, a boat trip to Spirit Island on **Maligne Lake**, and some of the darkest night skies in the world. Parts of the park and town were hit hard by a wildfire in 2024, so check Parks Canada for current openings.

Wildlife

You may see elk, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, black bears and grizzly bears. Never approach or feed animals, stay in your vehicle at roadside sightings, and carry **bear spray** on hikes and know how to use it. Follow all trail closures and warnings.

Park passes and rules

Every visitor needs a **Parks Canada pass** to stop in the national parks. Buy it online or at the park gates, and check current fees on the Parks Canada site. Campgrounds and shuttles open for booking months ahead and sell out fast for summer.

When to go

**July and August** are warmest and busiest. **June** can still have snow at high elevations, and some lakes stay frozen until early June. **September** is quieter with golden larch trees. Winter brings excellent skiing at **Sunshine Village**, **Lake Louise** and **Mt Norquay**, but some roads and lakes become inaccessible.

Getting there and around

Fly into **Calgary**. Airport shuttles run to Banff and Lake Louise, and **Roam Transit** buses link Banff town with Lake Louise and Canmore. Tours cover the Icefields Parkway. Another classic way to arrive is the **Rocky Mountaineer** train from Vancouver.

Where to stay

**Banff town** has the most choice. **Canmore**, just outside the park, is often better value. **Lake Louise** has a few hotels and lodges. Book many months ahead for summer.

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