Sal: beaches, kitesurfing and salt lakes on Cabo Verde's sunniest island

Santa Maria

**Santa Maria** began as a salt port and is now the island's holiday hub. The old **pontão**, the wooden pier, is its heart: each morning fishermen land tuna, wahoo and grouper there and clean them on the boards, a lively scene to watch. Around it are bars, cafés, small shops and a short pedestrian street. Big all-inclusive resorts line the beach to the east and west, and smaller guesthouses and apartments sit in town.

The beach itself, **Praia de Santa Maria**, is long and wide with mostly gentle water near the pier. Further out, waves and wind pick up.

Kitesurfing and water sports

Sal has world class conditions. **Kite Beach**, on the south east coast, has strong, steady cross shore winds from roughly November to May, and several schools run lessons for all levels. **Ponta Preta**, west of Santa Maria, is a famous wave spot that hosts international windsurf and kite events. Beginners should start with lessons at a school with rescue boats. Divers find wrecks, caves and reef fish, and boats run to see turtles in season.

Pedra de Lume and the Blue Eye

The **Salinas de Pedra de Lume** sit inside an old volcanic crater on the east coast, reached through a tunnel. The water is so salty you float effortlessly, like the Dead Sea, and old salt works and a small spa complete the scene. It is one of Sal's must-dos.

In the north west near Palmeira is **Buracona**, a rocky coast with natural pools and the **Olho Azul**, the Blue Eye, a cave where sunlight turns the water a glowing blue around midday on sunny days.

Shark Bay and turtles

At **Shark Bay** (Baía da Parda) near Costa Fragata, you wade into shallow water to watch lemon shark pups circle your feet. They are harmless, but go with a reputable operator and follow their guidance. From roughly June to October, loggerhead turtles nest on Sal's beaches, and conservation groups run guided night watches. Never go alone or use lights near nesting turtles.

Espargos and Palmeira

**Espargos**, the capital in the middle of the island near the airport, is where locals live and shop. Climb **Monte Curral** for views over the whole flat island. **Palmeira** is the fishing port on the west coast and a good stop for a simple grilled fish lunch.

Is Sal only resorts?

Not at all, but it is the most tourist focused island. Stay in Santa Maria town rather than an isolated resort if you want to eat locally and walk to the pier. Many visitors pair a week on Sal with Boa Vista, or with Mindelo and Santo Antão for contrast. See the places to visit list for restaurants and stays.

A suggested week

Spend the first days settling into Santa Maria: mornings at the pier watching the catch come in, afternoons on the beach, sunset drinks along the sand. Book a kitesurf or windsurf lesson early in the week if you want to learn, as progress comes with practice. Midweek, take an island tour that links Espargos, Pedra de Lume, Buracona, Palmeira and Shark Bay in a single day. Save a day for a boat trip, diving or a fishing outing, and consider an overnight hop to Boa Vista, or a longer flight to São Vicente to add Mindelo and Santo Antão.

Getting there and around

Amílcar Cabral International Airport near Espargos receives most charter and scheduled flights from Europe, plus some from the Americas and Africa. Taxis and aluguers link the airport, Espargos and Santa Maria. Agree taxi fares in advance and keep small notes.