Temburong: Brunei's rainforest district

Why visit Temburong

Much of Borneo's forest has been logged or turned into plantations, but Brunei's oil wealth meant it never needed to cut its trees. The result is jungle that feels genuinely untouched: towering dipterocarp trees, clear rivers, hornbills overhead and almost no other visitors. Temburong lets you experience that with comfort and safety, even if you have never been in a rainforest before.

Getting there

The Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Bridge, usually called the Temburong Bridge, crosses Brunei Bay and links the capital to the small town of Bangar. Most visitors travel with a tour that includes transport. Independent travellers can take a taxi or hire a driver, but there is no reliable public transport inside the district. The old speedboat route through the mangroves to Bangar has run only occasionally since the bridge opened, so check before relying on it.

Ulu Temburong National Park

Entry to the national park is by licensed tour only. The usual trip drives to Batang Duri, then continues by longboat, called temuai, up the Temburong River, with boatmen pushing through the shallow rapids. From the park headquarters, a steep climb of several hundred steps leads to a steel canopy walkway that rises above the treetops; at sunrise the mist lifts off the valleys below. Afternoons are for swimming in the river, a short waterfall walk and floating back down on a tube. Day trips start very early, but staying a night at a lodge lets you hear the jungle at dusk.

Other things to do

• **Bukit Patoi in the Peradayan Forest Reserve:** a hot, steep hike to a viewpoint over the forest and the bay.
• **Wasai Wong Kadir:** a small waterfall and pool popular for a cool swim.
• **Bangar:** the district town, with a few cafés, a mosque and a weekly market.
• **Mangrove trips:** look for proboscis monkeys and crocodiles along the rivers near Bangar.

Where to stay

Accommodation is limited and simple, mostly rainforest lodges and eco resorts near the park and a few guesthouses in Bangar. Rooms are basic but comfortable, often with river views and no air conditioning. Book well ahead, especially for weekends and school holidays, because tour operators fill the lodges.

What to pack

Bring light, quick drying clothes, good walking shoes or sandals with grip, insect repellent, a rain jacket, a dry bag for your phone and a refillable water bottle. Leeches appear after rain; leech socks help. Take any medication you need, as facilities are limited.

Wildlife to look for

Temburong's forests hold hornbills, including the rhinoceros hornbill, gibbons whose calls carry across the valleys, macaques, flying lizards, colourful butterflies and, along the rivers, kingfishers and monitor lizards. Proboscis monkeys live in the mangroves near Bangar. Guides are good at spotting wildlife, so ask questions and move quietly.

Plan your visit

Spend a day or two in Bandar Seri Begawan first, then head over the bridge. Our places to visit list covers lodges and walks, and the free trip planner helps you choose between a day trip and a night in the forest.